Category Archives: Takin’ It Easy

Del Maguey Single Village “Tobala” Mezcal

Oaxaca, Mexico – 45%ABV – $113

WARNING & DISCLAIMER – For those who keep, this mezcal is not certified as “Kosher” or “Kosher for Passover” – I am no rabbi but I think, based on their meticulous process and the fact that this Del Maguey Mezcal is made of 100% Wild Mountain Maguey, a type of agave, that this may be “Kosher by Nature”.

Crystal clear Mexican goodness.  That is what I am about to review here.

I’ve been a tequila drinker for a good long time now.  I never suffered the college-tequila-shot-binging that turns most people off to one of Mexico’s national drinks.

We are, however, not discussing tequila today.  We’re discussing Mezcal.

What are the differences?

Spoken in broad terms, most tequilas are made from blue agave (at least the better ones).  Sometimes 100% blue agave, sometimes a mix of different agave varietals.  Tequila is also twice distilled.

Mezcal is made from Maguey Agave (of which there are many different types) and is usually distilled only once.

Maguey Tobala (Wild Mountain Variety)
Maguey Espadin, what with the sword-shaped leaves. Do not fall on one of these plants people!

The Maguey Tobala (or wild mountain agave) is different than the Maguey Espadin (which has leaves shaped like long swords). It is smaller and broader leafed. It takes about eight Tobala hearts (the part of the plant that gets mashed, liquified and distilled) to equal one heart from the more commonly propagated and cultivated Maguey.

“Yeah but, how does it differ in taste?”

Tequila is known to be sweet and fruity.  Mezcal is similar but has an intense smokiness that one might equate to the smokiness of an Islay Scotch whisky like an Ardbeg or Laphroaig.  Yeah, they can be that smoky!

On the nose A tire shop after a recent shipment, burning rubber bouncy balls and smog.

Interesting that the label shows a line of traffic… this sort of smells like that.

Butter and rye seed.

Pulling my nose back a bit from the glass and I’m getting really nice notes of vanilla.

Lying ‘neath those heavy-heavy traffic and rubbery/smoky scents I’m finding mint sprigs, fresh mango (heavily sugared mango, that is) and dandelion flowers.

On the mouth Fruity and juicy tropical melons, a plastic fire and marjoram (?).

Such a smoky sweet tang to it… amazing really.  Cinnamon ribbon candy.

So oily, chewy & ooey…  I really can not stress how delicious this stuff is.

Finish Cinnamon finish, long and really lovely.

In sum This mezcal is made for those of us who love the peaty/smoky whiskies.  Smokiness aside, I find this mezcal to be a true treat.

I drink this on Passover because I can’t drink a grains based spirit but I also drink this on Passover because Passover is a time to celebrate and tonight, I’m celebrating.

To life, to family, to freedom.

Special thanks to Andrew of Liberty Bar in Seattle for introducing me to this gem.

A blind-ish tasting of some crazy mixed up old juice…

A funny thing happened on the way to “GlenHatton”…

“Wait, what’s GlenHatton?”

“GlenHatton” is a something I’ve been brewing for some time now.  I’ve been pouring my “Dregs”* into a single bottle, about 26 whiskies in all, and reached a point were it seemed to smell & taste… interesting.  So, being taught that “sharing is caring” I reached out to some people via the JSMWS Facebook page to see if they wanted to try it.  I received more responses than I could shake a stick at and could only dole out about 6 samples.  There will be a a series of “GlenHatton” posts in the very near future…  “Watch this space”

*(“Dregs” Noun.  Meaning in the Whisky World: The final bits of many whisky bottles or samples that where there simply was not enough left to drink as a dram, or barely more than a few drops.)

So, one of the lucky 6 recipients of my GlenHatton Dregs whisky asked if I were interesting in tasting an all-malt blend that he had been working on (Sssseeeeee??? sharing IS caring!!).  I, of course, said ‘hell yeah!’ and asked what was in the blend.  He could not tell me.  All he could say was that this was some OLD juice!  He did give some names and a range of dates: 60’s Balvenie, 30’s Mortlach, some old-ass LittleMill and a few others.  Again, the information was as limited as could be.  That’s cool.  I figured it’d be a fun experiment regardless…

Thanks to EM for the sample!

On the noseFruity and dusty at the same time.

A high sweet corn-like note is uncovered after the first sip and is off-set by a slight touch of smoke.

Light berry jam (think a mix of raspberry and strawberry) and a whiff of wood.

Jasmine tea (a lovely note).

Light sweet butter.  A touch of coconut and a bit of pineapple.

On the mouth ***Incredibly thick*** and seemingly growing in volume  (perhaps my mouth is watering?).  Flat soda.

I’m guessed the ABV was pretty low, no more than 43% (EM corrected me, its just over 44%ABV).

Toasted cream pastries and warmed woody bits.

Spicy and spiced notes of fresh and juicy melon.

Mango, sticky rice and coconut milk (Thai mango sticky rice).

Finish Fruity & tropical – filled with mango and persimmons.  Lasting fruitiness.

In sum A cool mix of fruits, wood, smoke (however slight) and Asian-style goodness.  All-in-all a nicely balanced, enjoyable whisky.  Perhaps the best thing about this whisky was the mango sticky rice note (I am SO HUNGRY right now).

Kavalan Solist “Vinho” Taiwanese whisky

Taiwan – 58.8%ABV – 200ml (special thanks to Ian Chang for the generous sample!)

The Kavalan range of whiskies, by the King Car Whisky Distillery out of Taiwan, are being churned out in short order but are not being done so in a way that would compromise quality.  I’ve been pretty impressed with most of their whiskies that I’ve tried so far.

I asked Ian Chang of King Car what the make up of the “Vinho” Solist was and I was surprised and impressed by the depth of Ian’s response:

“Indeed, the Vinho is part of our Solist series, which is a cask strength, single cask single malt whisky of course. The most special thing about it is that Vinho is fully matured in used American oak wine barrels that have been toasted and recharred in a way that brings out fruity vanilla notes from the whisky and wood overlaid on a delicate background of complex fruitiness.

The oak casks are made from American oak that has been seasoned in the open air for at least 24 months. The oak is slow grown that results in a greater release of flavours into the whisky. This reduces the astringent effect of tannins and releases more vanilla spiciness and hints of herbs such as dill and lemon grass. The result is softness and added complexity.

The casks have (deliberately) been used to mature both red and white wines which eventually will contribute the background complex fruitiness to Kavalan / Solist Vinhos.

After their use for wine maturation the casks are carefully shaved inside then gently toasted over an oak chip fire for a strictly controlled period of time and temperature. This converts wine residues into a complex mixture of fruit flavours including lime, berry fruits and peaches. Then the casks are charred for a short period of time to release lashings of flavours such as vanilla, ice cream and caramelised sugars.

The result is a more complex whisky than is possible than with whisky casks alone!”

The process sounds very interesting.  Let’s see what it does to the taste…

On the nose Incredibly bourbony; that is to say, strong and sweet notes of vanilla and spice – this does not “taste” like bourbon.

The color, which is like a deep brown mixed with blood red, suggests heavily charred casks and some of the wine influence Ian mentioned.

Musty and heavy with cinnamon and burnt sugar.

Notes of papaya and paper bags.

Blackberries and fresh starfruit.

…an interesting interplay of scents.

Watered down tomato based alphabet soup.

On the mouthDrying and a bit meaty.

For 58.8% ABV, it’s not as hot as I had expected.

Notes of a nice Malbec wine, soft and slightly tannic.

Dark berries and red-wine-soaked raisins.

Left-over fried grizzle and super-sour green apples.

Slightly nutty and again, drying; like the way walnuts can dry your mouth.

FinishLong finish that’s increasingly peppered and a bit caramely….

In sum This is perhaps my favorite Kavalan yet. Very complex and nicely balanced. Sometimes wine finishes can be too complex and lacking balance… not the case with this one.

Perfect for after dinner kibitzing with friends.

Usquaebach – a review of their three standard expressions

Delving once more into the world of the unpronounceable names.

Well, there’s the ever famous YHVH (you can see the Hebrew to the left); the Tetragrammaton (or unpronouncable name of G-d… sorry folks, it’s not pronounced Yahweh.  Like I said, it’s an unpronounceable name).

But, this is not a religious site it’s a whisky site so let’s talk about unpronounceable names of whisky.

A while back we discussed Ardbeg’s Airigh Nam Beist (pronounced Ari Nam Baysht).  And, let’s not forget the Ardbeg Uigeadail (pronounced Oo-g’dal, or so I’m told).

Today we’re faced with USQUAEBACH (gesundheit!) blended whiskies.  Some people pronounce it as “Oosk’eh-bah”.  Some say “Us-quay-batch”.  I’ve even heard this brand referred to as “Whisk-ay-bay” (which I think is the way speakers of Gaelic may say it).   Either way, the pronunciation I hear most in the US is “Oosk’eh-bah” so, until I am told otherwise, that will be how I pronounce it.

So, what is Usquaebach?  Other than the Gaelic way of saying “Water of life”, it’s a blended whisky brand out of the Highlands which has recently be re-launched here in the US with three standard expressions: Usquaebach Reserve, Usquaebach 15yo vatted malt whisky and Usquaebach Old-Rare.

Usquaebach Reserve blended whisky – 43% ABV

On the nose A pleasant nose filled with notes of pears and charcoal.

Beat up Chuck Taylors and maybe even some white pepper.

A grainy sweetness fills my nostrils as does the scent of heavily used pencil erasers.

On the mouth Light mouth feel.

Grassy and flowery.

Slightly salty and hints of citrus hit the front of the tongue.

Finish A peppery finish, medium in length.

In sum Dangerously easy to go down the gullet yet nothing overwhelmingly magical about it.  A pleasant blend.

Usquaebach 15yo vatted malt whisky – 43% ABV

On the nose Hot sauna stones in a wooden sweat lodge.

Incredibly saltily smelling.

Mushroom & barley; earthy yet hints of honeysuckle and cucumber sauce.

Wow, those mushrooms come back in full force with a thin backbone of smoke, very subtle smoke.

On the mouth Peppery entry with cured meats and vinegar – very foodie.

A touch of jasmine.

Browned lemons and freezerburn.

Grassy notes – farm hay on a hot summer’s day.

Finish Medium finish with what I’d swear is very mild green olive but others would disagree…

In sum A very enjoyable vatted malt with nearly too much meatiness but just enough for me to be OK with it.  There’s a fine line for me on the “meaty”malts and this one walks it quite well.  I had this whisky as part of a tasting event I did for 20 some-odd people and I kept going back to it.  Very enjoyable stuff.

Usquaebach Old-Rare blended whisky – 43% ABV

On the nose Fun-fun-fun nose filled with dark roasted coffee beans and hot peppers.

Spiced fruits and stewed prunes.

Dates and chewy date bread.

On the mouth A slithery smooth mouthfeel (did I just use the word slithery because Conan the Barbarian is on TV right now and Conan just killed that big-ass snake?  Could be…).

Something slightly coastal about it.

More coffee, a bit lighter than the nose.

Raisins, simple syrup and cream sherry.

Apples and peppers (like on the nose).

Finish Beach pebbles, dates and sea air – a lengthy finish

In sum — A fantastic blend.  Beautifully balanced with lip-smacking sherry notes.  A bit of a warmer-upper – perhaps best on a cold early spring night.

Over all, I think each of these three whiskies has a time and a place.  The “Reserve” is a good any day dram (not to be confused with an everyday dram though).  The 15yo is an impressive malt that goes well with rich foods and good company.  And lastly, the Old-Rare is a celebratory dram.

You can find the Reserve here.

You can find the 15yo here.

You can find the Old-Rare here.

Special thanks goes out to Noah Goldstein for the samples!

anCnoc 12yr & 16yr Scotch whisky – a side by side tasting.

Highland region – 43%ABV for the 12yr – $35 | £25 | €30 — 46%ABV for the 16yr – $45- $65 | £40 | €49

anCnoc, anCnoc, anCnoc… aChooo!!

Actually, it’s pronounced “ah-knock”.  This whisky, distilled by Knockdhu, used to be called Knockdhu but have decided to change the name of the whisky to anCnoc so as not to be confused with “Knockando” whisky.

The 12yr is on your left whilst the 16yr is on your right.

The anCnoc line was recently (within the past few years) launched here in the US (and elsewhere) with both the 12yr & 16yr readily available in most major markets.

If you look around a bit, some stores & online shops may have some 1993 & 1994 vintages.  There’s even a 30yr whisky out there though, it’s a bit hard to come by.

I’m a bit short on time today so I need to cut to the chase.  Let’s taste these whiskies!

On to the nosing

12yr — Lemon juice and curdled milk in a … good way.

Very sugary nose.

Vanilla and coconut shells.

Witch Hazel (originating from Connecticut!  Represent!).

Malty notes with some pear.

Apple and buttered toast (rye bread).

16yrSugared candies… for my Brits out there, Parma Violets (for my fellow Americans, Smarties).

Pineapple and dried mango (topped with salt).

Sea breeze and, dare I say, a waft (or thread) of smoke in the distance?  Nah, maybe it’s just in my head…

On to the tasting (with notes on the finish)

12yrNice entry, good mouthfeel.

Much of what I got on the nose I am getting here in flavor.

An emphasis on the vanilla and buttered bread.

A tad salty and some unexpected pizza spices on the finish which is medium in length.

16yrMuch more vegetal in flavor as compared to the nosing.

Grassy yet with hints of vanilla custard and pie crust.

Lemon pinwheels and butter cookies.

The finish is slightly drying with some oak…

In sumBoth easy and approachable whiskies.  The 16yr was the clear winner in my book with those delicious sugared candy and tropical fruit notes.  The 12yr was nice however, I would have liked to have tried this at 46% and non-chill filtered like the 16yr is.  I feel bad for the Brits out there – the 12yr is at 40% ABV while here in the states, we get a slightly higher ABV for our 12yr.

So, while the 12yr is pleasant enough, I’d put my money down on the 16yr for the win.  Summery, light, refreshing.

Special thanks goes out to Kathy Lewis-Flanigan for the generous samples!