Category Archives: Distilleries

Autumn, Bunnahabhain, Master of Malt

Islay distilleries explained thru Rock and Roll comparisons – Part 6 – Bunnahabhain & my review of the 20yo Single Sherry cask from Master of Malt

Islay distilleries and their whiskies explained through Rock and Roll – Part VI (of VIII)

I was hoping to get part six of this series up last week but time just got away from me. Having only three more Islay/Rock posts left (including today’s post), I’ll be sad to see this series end.

Here’s one of the beauties of Islay: We’re going from young, brash and heavily peated Kilchoman, to older and gentler, Bunnahabhain.  Bunnahabhain’s tagline is “Welcome to the gentle taste of Islay.”

Known as Islay’s [basically] unpeated whisky, Bunnahabhain is also known for often being generously sherried.  Today’s whisky, though not bottled by Bunnahabhain, is no exception to this generalization.

Before we move forward, let’s quick run down the Islay distilleries & their rock and roll equivalents we’ve covered so far — Part one:Bruichladdich as The Sex Pistols, Part two: Ardbeg as Slayer, Part three: Caol Ila as The 80′s (They get their very own decade!), Part four:Bowmore as David Bowie and Part five: Kilchoman as the Jackson Five (somewhat fitting, in retrospect, with them both bearing the number five).

Today we’re reviewing a 20yo Bunnahabhain bottled by Master of Malt.  Sadly, this bottling is completely sold out however, Master of Malt still have some of this as part of their “Drinks by the Dram” offering.  I’m glad I bought a bottle before they were all sold out!

20yo Bunnahabhain – 54.1%ABV – bottled by Master of Malt – Sold Out (though you can get a 3cl sample of it for only £5/$7)

On the nose — What you’d come to expect with a heavily sherried whisky (and I mean heavily):  Furniture polish, cherry stones, tanned leather, rum balls and/or tiramasu, stewed prunes, burning cigars, unlit cigars (dark wrappers)… You name it, it’s in here and nicely organized.

On top of this is a very evident woody note… Oaky and I can almost smell the tannins.

With water and there’s some added unlit pipe tobacco (floral and reminiscent of some hookah stuff I’ve smoked before) and dark chocolates.

On the mouth — MASSIVE ATTACK.  It’s like all of the aforementioned items I got on the nose were jammed into my mouth.  Thinnish mouthfeel and highly drying.  Hmmm… a bit too oaky given its age.  Let me try some water here.  ¡¡Agua al rescate!!

 

The mouth feel is saved and there less heat and less attack upon entry.

The flavors seem to match the nose (again) yet the addition of chocolate covered raisins and wafts of light smoke offer up something quite delicious.

Still a bit drying which leads me to the finish…

Finish — Somehow my mouth starts to water as the whisky continues to dry in a long and slightly spicy finish.

In sum —  This whisky is a powerhouse, no doubt.  Without water, it’s a difficult whisky to drink.  With a dash of water, it’s delicious (yet the oak will not be subdued and therefore, it’s a bit off balance).

An autumn whisky for sure.  This’ll warm you – boy, will it warm you!

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Bunnahabhain – The Band!

With Michael Stipe’s unique voice rising over the band’s overall unmistakable sound and while every song was quite different, every song was very much R.E.M.

Like them or not (and I happen to love them), you can’t argue with this fact.

The same could ring true with Bunnahabhain.  While they do experiment with peated and ex-bourbon expressions such as “Toiteach (and a few others),” it’s fairly safe to say you know what you’re going to get when you taste their 12yo, 18yo,  25yo.  Big sherried whiskies.

What’s more is, like when bands have their music remastered, in 2011 Bunnahabhain “remastered” their standard range.  Moving their ABV from 40%/43% up to 46.3%, discontinuing the use of E150a caramel coloring and the ending the practice of chill-filtration has seemed to do wonders to the their standard range, breathing in new life and vibrancy.

So, rock on Bunnahabhain!  Stand in the place where you live.  Don’t Lose Your Religion, just distill while playing your Finest Worksong.

Autumn, Cold Winter, Dalmore, Let's celebrate!, Sirius Whisky Purveyors

Sirius Whisky Purveyors – 1964 single cask of Dalmore

Highlands region – 60%ABV – $$??

Being that I don’t know much about this whisky (the exception being that it’s single cask, cask strength, 47 years old, natural color and no artificial coloring added) or the full scope of what Sirius Whisky Purveyors is up to with their whiskies, I’m going to keep the preamble to a minimum.

What I do know is that Sirius is an independent bottler to the Nth degree.  Pun is actually intended here as Sirius is owned and run by Mahesh Patel – the man responsible for a very unique whisky show – the “Nth” or, Universal Whisky Experience — THE ultimate whisky show with respects to it featuring only the oldest, rarest, high cost whiskies.

It’s no wonder that Mahesh has chosen this cask of Dalmore (in addition to many other casks soon to be released) – it screams premium!  A 47 year old single cask of Dalmore?  You know it.

Whisky shows as well as old and premium single malts aside, Mahesh is a heck of a guy.  A total charmer.  Personable, smart, sweet and, man, he knows his whisky!

I will release more information about Sirius Whisky Purveyors as soon as it’s available to me.

On the nose –  Sharp and bright yet its age is made known.  Notes of sugar cane and demerara rum.

Tiramisu and a big, boozy orange with traces of cloves and allspice.

Interesting note here – raw ramen noodles!  For a 47yo whisky – this is very alive.  Not at all tired.

Roasted nuts, pickled ones too.

A full humidor cigar shop (I’m thinking Corona Cigar Company in Florida).

The addition of water softens the whisky a bit and adds a “dusty” element and puts a focus on the tobacco notes.

On the mouth – Incredibly hot.  I think it’s safe to say that some water will help to open this one up a bit – it’s quite, tight.  The addition of water is like sending this to a whisky masseuse.

An interesting mix of what you’ve come to know and love from a sherried whisky (tobacco, prunes, cinnamon, cloves, citrus, etc…) but there’s a young, juicy quality here that I can only equate to Hi-C fruit juice – hey, I have kids.  What do you expect?

A touch of brine and a good deal of spice.

Finish – Decent length with allspice and oranges.

In sum – This whisky not only holds up to water but shines with it.  Without the water, I found it to be just too hot (for my tastes).  With water though, it’s really lovely.  No signs of its age from an over-oaked perspective.  However, it’s age shows in terms of complexity.  A touch off balance without water but spot on with.

I’m not sure what the cost of this whisky will be but my guess is a 47yo Dalmore will cost a pretty shekel so you’re most likely going to break this out for the “special times” in life or, this will make a great addition to your whisky collection (if that’s your bag).

Cold Winter, Glen Moray, Need To Bundle Up

Glen Moray – 8yo Chenin Blanc, Distillery Only, Single Cask bottled at 60.7% ABV

Image shown is not of the actual bottle itself but shows you what the Glen Moray distillery bottlings look like.

Speyside region – 60.7%ABV – £60 (distillery only)

Many people in the states have not heard of Glen Moray or if they have, they only know of their 12yo whisky (a solid, solid whisky if you ask me).

Most people in the UK think of Glen Moray as the supermarket single malt.  A bargain malt, if you will.

My initial experience with Glen Moray was quite different…

It started with a chance purchase of a single cask expression.  While at the time I had not known much about the distillery, I was attracted to this single cask of Glen Moray as the whisky had spent its full 13 years of life in a new charred oak cask.  Sort of like a Scottish bourbon, I thought.

Yes, obviously, nothing like a bourbon being that the distillate is 100% malted barley but perhaps a bit like an American whiskey in that the maturation took place inside a new charred oak cask (a very un-Scotch whisky thing to do, mind you).  The cask choice intrigued me so I had to buy a bottle.

In four words: I fell in love.

After this my friend David B treated me to their standard 12yo and even at lower 40% ABV — I am usually an anti-40% ABV elitist-whisky-geek prick but often find myself enjoying the strength.  A difficult position to be in… perhaps I’m a mystery broken into a jigsaw puzzle, wrapped in a conundrum, hidden in a Chinese box, a riddle — I found it to be robust, well balanced and had an amazing mouthfeel.  Thanks again David, I am a convert.

Since then I have had my good share of Glen Moray whiskies.

During my last trip to Scotland I had the good chance to visit their amazing distillery which had, perhaps, one of the most beautiful distillery welcome centers (Iain, you’ve done a bang up job!) I had ever seen.

While at their distillery shop I had the chance to taste the following whisky: Glen Moray Chenin Blanc Distillery Only Single Cask bottled at 60.7% ABV.

At only 260 bottles and being a distillery only bottle… this stuff is like hens teeth!

On the nose — Earthy, pungent & sweet.  This is big and bold – a powerful smelling 8yo whisky.

Fresh cut (green) tubers come to mind as I sniff this whisky as do white cherries but, and perhaps more so, white raisins make quite an impression.

(I’m fairly positive that the preceding sentence was grammatically incorrect in some way.  Please forgive me.)

Golden birch, cinnamon sweetened fruit biscuits and the distinct smell of a burning cotton t-shirt.

On the mouth — Well, if I thought the nose was big and bold, it’s a veritable pussy cat compared to the attack of this whisky upon first sip.  Massive stuff!

It let’s you know that it’s 60.7% ABV.  It’s not hot, just *incredibly* forceful.

More (dark) birch beer, quite spicy and drying with touches of over cinnamoned french toast, maple sugar candies and honey reduction.

It’s almost like drinking hi-octane Chenin Blanc except that the malt content is quite obvious (yet so is the cask effect).

Finish — Very sweet and filled with boozy peaches.  Long too.  Let’s not forget that bit!

In sum —  Sweet and puckering stuff.  You might want to put on your big boy/girl boots before delving in!  A little bit goes a long way.  You’re going to want to spend time with this one.

Whether you choose to add water or not is up to you.  I decided not to but a little bit might help (as you’ll learn from the review over at guidscotchdrink.com and another great review from Matt and Karen at Whisky For Everyone.)

Special thanks goes out to IA for the sample – cheers!

Autumn, Cold Winter, Glenglassaugh

Glenglassaugh 45yo bottled at 49.2% ABV

Highland region – 49.2%ABV – Best of luck finding a bottle.  And if you do, expect to pay about $2000/bottle.

With release after release of old Glenglassaugh, there would seem to be no shortage of the stuff.

The previous sentence could not be further from the truth.

What makes a whisky such as this so very precious is that it’s from Glenglassaugh’s stocks of 400 (more or less) older casks.

True rarity – hence the hefty price tag.

People go nuts over older whiskies – the older the better right?  Not true, good people.  Sometimes a whisky an hit its prime at the young age of 3, 4 or 5 years old.  Or, if not at its prime, still damn tasty, complex and balanced.  However as whiskies get older they run the chance of getting over oaked, too drying and just… blech.

I’ve yet to run into that problem with the older Glenglassaughs I’ve had so far (in fact, they’ve all been *quite* stellar – especially the first Chosen Few release).  Let’s see how this one held up to the test of time:

On the nose –  A wonderfully sweet nose, if not a touch hot, with other scents mixed in such as Connecticut shade tobacco leaves, sugar cane and near ripe white flesh peach.

Chocolate covered marzipan.

(Good) oak and spice, spice and (good) oak.

A slight wine-like note that was floating a top it all but now seems a bit more forward.

On the mouth – Oily texture yet drying fairly quickly.

Not hot like the nose initially suggested.  I love the strength of this whisky.

Oak and grape skins are evident but lying just beneath those flavors is a stone fruit compote.

Perhaps a touch of cola syrup and the slightest amount of fennel (slight).

Finish – Shiraz like spice – not sure why I keep getting these wine like notes in here but, I like it.

In sum – A bit drying but not overly so, especially for a 45 year old whisky.  Very enjoyable, warming and balanced quite well.  Something to enjoy with a good book.

Special thanks to RS for the sample!

Kilchoman, Refreshed, Summertime

Islay distilleries explained thru Rock and Roll comparisons – Part 5 – Kilchoman & my review of the new Machir Bay (UK bottling)

 

Islay distilleries and their whiskies explained through Rock and Roll – Part V (of VIII)

We’ve made it over the hump.  There are eight active distilleries on Islay and so far I’ve lead us through four of them and what I deem their rock & roll likenesses to be:  Part one:Bruichladdich as The Sex Pistols, Part two: Ardbeg as Slayer, Part three: Caol Ila as The 80′s (They get their very own decade!) and Part four: Bowmore as David Bowie.

I thought reviewing Kilchoman might be the best way to kick off the 2nd half of this series.  At 6 years old, Kilchoman is Islay’s youngest distillery and they are kicking out some absolutely cracking whisky!  Age be damned, Kilchoman is all about quality.

Today we’ll review the new Machir Bay whisky (the UK bottling – we will see a bottling here in the US very shortly) which is a mixture of 3yo (60%), 4yo (35%)  & 5yo (5%) ex-bourbon barrel (Buffalo Trace to be exact) matured whiskies.  Before batting it all together, the 4yo whisky was further matured in oloroso sherry butts for an addition six weeks (to help round out some of the flavors, methinks — it’ll help add some nice color to the whisky as well).

Kilchoman Machir Bay – 46%ABV – $55 | £39

On the nose — It’s quite obvious that Kilchoman has a true style and character.  Initial whiff and yup, this is a Kilchoman.

And it’s lovely.

Quite sweet smelling under all of that peat — fruity and tart (tart apples in an apple tart).

The obvious brine and smoke are waving a flag saying “hello, hello!!  here we are!!”  Citrusy notes here as well.  Lemon, lime… limon?

This aside, I’m enjoying some buttered toast notes and even a salted pie crust like scent.

On the mouth — Thick, full, oily whisky.

Much like what I experienced on the nose however there is the slight addition of sherry influence here.  Think light milk chocolates and spice.

There’s a bit of pepper here and something that I just love: salted black licorice.

Nice and even keeled – No huge sign of being too young.

Finish — Very long and laced with more licorice and even a touch of grilled apples.

In sum — Impressed yet again with Kilchoman.  It’s obvious they know what they’re doing.  This whisky is peaty/smoky enough for the peat heads out there and complex enough for the whisky geeks and just perfect, if you ask me, for a summer’s day.

I find this Kilchoman to be bright and fresh and has a bit of a pick-me-up feel to it.  Highly recommended.

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Kilchoman – The Band!

Initially, I thought the easy comparison to make with Kilchoman (as sort of the new kid on Islay) would be to make a comparison to a rock band that was comprised of youth.

Bands that come to mind:

  • Hanson (mmmbop, no)
  • Old Skull (I forgot how terrible this band was)
  • Justin B… I’m not even going to go there

Well, that didn’t work out so I decided to think of bands I love that have had hit after hit after hit (like Kilchoman has enjoyed with their whiskies).

I was happy to finally think of a band that had both youth, great music and hit after hit after hit…

Kilchoman – congrats!  You are the Jackson Five!  A truly incredible band and truly delicious whiskies.

Special thanks goes to JJY for getting me a bottle of this fancy sauce!