Category Archives: An everyday dram

Distillery focus: Westland Distillery and their American Single Malt Whiskies

 

Westland Distillery LogoIf you don’t live in the Pacific Northwest (PNW) of the United States, chances are you’ve not heard of Westland Distillery.  As a Connecticutian born and raised I’ve not heard of them so, don’t feel so bad.  They reached out to me a couple of weeks ago to A) get some whiskey samples to taste and B) have a phone conversation so I could learn more about their distillery and what makes Westland… Westland.

I was quite impressed with what I had to hear and very VERY impressed with their whiskies.  While their whiskies are currently only distributed in the PWN, we can expect to see wider distribution in the US and overseas during the coming months of 2014.

Are you ready to get your whisk(e)y geek, geekin’ on?  I know I am.  Let’s learn about Westland Distillery:

Location: Seattle Washington – home to one of my favorite record labels, “Sub Pop,” who had signed (at one time or another) such great bands as Sunny Day Real Estate, Mudhoney, Low, Iron and Wine, Sleater-Kinney, Get Up Kids and many, many more (and yeah, that includes Nirvana and Soundgarden).

Malted-barley-at-Westland-DistilleryWhiskey style: Single Malt, 100% Barley – this includes 6 different barley types which are Washington Pale Malt, Munich Malt, Extra Special Malt, Brown Malt, Pale Chocolate Malt and Scottish malt peated to the tune of 55ppm.

(Note: their standard mash bill consists of all the above malts sans the peated malt.  Furthermore, the bulk of said mash bill is the Washington Pale Malt which is at approximately 70% of the bill)

Average whiskey age is at least 24mos.

(Note # 2: Westland doesn’t use a standard distillers yeast when creating their wash. They instead use Belgian brewers yeast.)

(Note # 3, the last of these notes: Rather than purchase cereal flour/grist, Westland houses their own Grist Mill to grind up their barley)

Westland Distillery Stills

Still style and capacity – you can see the stills just to the left but their capacity is at about 60,000 proof gallons of spirit per year which is at the maximum limit to retain the term “Craft Distillery.”  In fact, Westland is the largest Craft Distillery in Washington State (and perhaps the largest single malt distillery in the US).

Westland Distillery Casks and BarrelsWood management (I know 40% of you chuckled when you read “Wood Management.” I know I chuckled whilst typing it and re-reading it) – Westland primarily uses new charred American oak barrels no smaller than the standard 53gal.  They also use a good deal of sherry butts, sherry hogsheads and ex-bourbon barrels.  This is somewhat uncommon for American Craft Distilleries where it is quite common to use smaller 5 gallon, 10 gallon, 15 gallon, etc… barrels.

What’s more, regarding their new charred oak barrels is that, like Glenmorangie, they source very porous slow-growth American oak and these barrels are only coopered after the wood has air dried for a minimum 18mos.

For those of you interested in knowing what their whiskies taste like (and why wouldn’t you?), read on:


Westland Distillery Flagship American Single Malt Whiskey
Whiskey # 1 – Flagship – aged 24mos, 46% ABV:

On the noseImmediately takes me elsewhere when I nose this and *try* think of American Single Malt.  This has got, from the outset, a more Scotch feel to it (especially considering the new charred American oak maturation).

Westland-Distillery-1

Let’s pull out some notes: ground green coffee beans, cayenne peppered dark chocolate (think Lindt), espresso foam, wild cherry Pine Bros cough drops.

This is *not* your typical American single malt.  Wet pocket change after a swim in your local swimming hole (most notably like wet pennies).

Hints of burnt licorice and an earthen hiking trail on a sunny, bright and crisp winter day.  Really, really inviting.

On the mouth —  It starts youthful but not young and surely not immature.  Then a raspberry component returns in place of the wild cherry cough drops yet its bundled up in a canvas bag.

Westland-Distillery-2Very sweet with hints of coconut infused vanilla beans and a good handful of Heide brand Jujuyfruits (flavors are there even the licorice yet like on the nose, it’s slightly burnt).

Solid mouthfeel, oily and feel in’ good!  Add in the cardboard box from said Jujyfruits – this is a mild note but there.  Spicy on the back of the tongue.

FinishLong and malty, incredibly malty like a high octane beer.

In sum It’s a new style to the category of American Single Malt.  This is one for the Scotch lovers of the world who want something unique and wish to dabble in American hooch. This is one for American Whiskey lovers that wish to dabble in spirits closer to the Scotch category.  Really well done and, dare I say, an every day drinker!

Westland Distillery Deacon Seat American Single Malt WhiskeyWhiskey # 2 – Deacon Seat (limited edition) – aged 26mos, 46% ABV:

On the noseWow. Wow, wow.  This reminds me of some older releases of unpeated Bruichladdich whiskies.  There’s an incredible freshness with hints of coastal sea breeze.

Westland-Distillery-3Hints of lemon and salted pineapple and shards of dried and sugared mango.  This noses like a 15-16yo, not 2 years 2 months.  Again, wow.

Back with the jujyfruits (like I got with the Flagship) but this time it’s focused on the yellow ones.  There’s something herbaceous neath all of these fruity layers but it’s unidentifiable and just enough to balance the fruit.  Need to taste.  Like, now.

On the mouth —  From the go it’s the mouth feel that grabs me.  The oils are incredible.  Liqueurish in mouthfeel (a la Sabra).  Initial reaction is that all the flavors are round or rounded.

Westland-Distillery-4Let’s pick this apart: steamed pineapple and lemon meets white tea while hiking through an oak forrest.  This is not over oaked but the wood is there, again, rounding out the overall experience.

Some of the green herbs are there but, oddly enough, I just can not pick that apart.  It’s a mixture of herbs without one being more prominent than the other.

Hints, mere hints of salt on the tongue as well.  Here’s something that *just* popped in my head:  This Whiskey feels “hopeful.”  It’s like the little Whiskey that could but then does!

FinishAgain, a malty finish but there’s spice left on the tongue and an effervescence/tingly feel that I did not notice until focusing on the finish.

In sum A total winner of a Whiskey.  So balanced and well integrated.  You could easily fool your Scotch loving friends into thinking that this is A) a Scotch whisky and B) a teenager.  Another everyday drinker.  I can actually picture this as a nice whisky for a warm spring day.

Westland Distillery First Peated American Single Malt WhiskeyWhiskey # 3 – First Peated – aged 24mos, 46% ABV:

On the noseGreat googly-moogly!  This is like a Highland peated Scotch whisky.  It doesn’t nose like a young peated whisky, the peat is soft and rounded.  It actually noses like a lighter, fresher Amrut Fusion (but nothing like Amrut Fusion).

Westland-Distillery-5Hints of peat and sea breeze, gorse flowers (could be that there’s new charred oak here, too, adding to the coconuty notes) and a dunnage warehouse.  Ever been to a whisky dunnage warehouse? If no, nose this and it’ll take you there.

New popsicle sticks and vinyl records (I imagine them being Elvis records).  This is a very confident whisky (with chops to back itself up).

On the mouth —  The peat says hello first (Hi peat!).  It’s much bigger than the nose lead on. I want to say that I taste Lapsang Souchong tea but it’s not artificial enough (as many of that variety of tea can taste).

There’s whiffs smoke here but what’s really grabbing my attention is the peat.  Notes of earthen floor and wet flowery twig fire.

24mos?  Bullcrap.  You taste like a 12yo, easily.

The mouthfeel is less oily than the Deacon Seat but still silky and there’s an effervescence to this Whiskey as well.

Westland-Distillery-6I’m taken back to my last trip to Bruichladdich where I tasted some 2yo sherried Lochindaal and thought, “this is only 2 years old?! No. Way.”  It is quite fresh as there are flowers and fruits and peat and smoke and salt and fizzy stuffs and salt water and salt water taffies (a shit ton of salt water taffies, come to think of it).

FinishInterminable. The smoke and fizz and now spice stick with you for a long, long time.

In sum Westland distillery seems to be a well kept secret around my parts but I am so glad they found me and now I can pay some hard earned cash on their whisky.  This First Peated from Westland is up there with some of the better whiskies I’ve tasted so far this year.  Really cracking stuff.  Look for some.  Keep and eye on these guys as you will not be disappointed.  If you are, just send me the the bottles and any unfinished whiskey.

Closing comments — The American craft distillery movement, simply put, is booming.  There is so much good stuff happening out there right now and right now is a good time to be a whisk(e)y geek.

While classified on paper as an American Craft Distiller, I would submit, given the flavor profiles and the fact that Westland Distillery produces Single Malt and nothing else, that Westland Distillery (from a world perspective) be ranked up there with other great world producers of single malt whisky a la Nikka, Suntory, Amrut, Kavalan, Lark, Brenne,
etc…

Westland Distillery’s focus is on producing and bottling world class single malt whisk(e)y and in my opinion they have a great grasp of the craft!

Special thanks to Steve and Matt for the samples and their openness regarding their distillery!

 

English Whisky Company comes to the US!

 

English-Whisky-Company-1I could start off this post by exclaiming: “The British are coming! The British are coming!”

Or worse (and this would be really bad), I could wax on about the British Invasion and make references to Herman’s Hermits dramlaxing with ‘Enry the Eighth or The Kinks rocking out with The Village Dram Preservation Society or The Beatles Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Heart Club Dram…

Heck, if I wanted to I could post this Monty Python bit about Kamikaze Scotsman… if I wanted to:

However, I’m not going to do any of that.  Wouldn’t even consider it!

There is a lot to cover in this post so I am going straight to the two whisky reviews.

Both whiskies are bottled at 46% ABV and non-chill filtered and can be found for around $69/bottle here in the USA.

Note that these bottlings are USA specific and have a slightly different make-up as compared to the UK or EU versions.  These whiskies have both been matured in both new oak and ex-bourbon casks.  The new wood cask usage is specific to the US market.

English Whisky Company “Classic” non-peated – 46% ABV

On the nose –  A slightly pungent start on the nose however it’s balanced quite nicely with hints of pear drops and a slight spicy/spiced edge.

English-Whisky-Company-2Damp dish towels are in here but it’s also bit like a banana split with, well, bananas, vanilla bean ice cream, the smell of nitrous from the whipped cream dispensing bottle and slight, distant notes of salted almond.  A vegetal quality as well that reminds me of milk thistle.

On the mouthAb-fab mouthfeel.  Attention whisky producers – this is the oily mouthfeel you want to target for your bottlings.  For realz.

English-Whisky-Company-3The spicy element really comes through.  It’s a most welcome element that creates a nice frame for the fine and malty backbone.  Some light fruits in here as well as hints of wild flowers.  This is a really delicate and soft whisky.

Finish – A nice long and drying finish.

In sum – This whisky is nice, delicate and understated.  However, there’s a spicy edge to it that is so very interesting….  Oddly enough, I see myself bundling up by a fire and drinking this one.  So, I’d say this is a fine winter-time dram.

English Whisky Company Peated – 46% ABV

English-Whisky-Company-4On the nose –  Soft peat and again, floral, like I got with on the “Classic” version.  An absolute joy that is somewhat reminiscent of the Octomore Comus when I nose it.  Salty and oh, so biscuity on the nose.  Anise seed or black licorice and touches of plums.

After a few minutes, the spice really shines through.

English-Whisky-Company-5On the mouth – A nice mouthfeel but not as oily as the sample of the “Classic” I have.  Very malty and salty with a good deal of smoke at the back of the tongue.  Salty, spicy, subtle fruits and more flowers for you.

Amazing that behind all of the spice, salt and malt that the delicate character of the spirit shines through.

Finish – Soft, drying and hints of chocolate and chicory (unexpected).

In sum – If I had my choice, as nice as the peated is, the “Classic” is so well done that I’d reach for that.  Actually, I’d reach for it anytime now that I think about it (and have a sip of it again).  Dare I say, the “Classic” is an everyday dram?  Yes, yes it is.  Yum!

Special thanks to RS and Purple Valley Imports for the official samples!

American distillery Lost Spirits fourth cask of Leviathan I – heavily peated single malt whiskey

 

California – 53% ABV – $50 (sadly now sold out but you can get Leviathan II for $50.  You may want to hop on this as these casks render less than 200 bottles each).

Leviathan I, Cask # 4

Today will be the third exploration into a bit of an oddity amongst American whiskeys.  What makes Lost Spirits Leviathan so unique?  Though I’ve touched on that previously, let’s review it again:

Well, it’s a single malt to start. (Yes I, like everybody else’s uncle and their respective monkeys, read the NY Times article about the surge in the American single malts.)  Beyond being a single malt whisky Leviathan is:

  • Peated to 110ppm (only Islay’s Bruichladdich can claim a higher peat ppm with their Octomore)
  • Matured in a late harvest Cabernet cask (few people have even heard of this style wine)
  • Single cask, cask strength, non-chill filtered, no colors added… the whole she-bang that whisk(e)y aficionados/anoraks/geeks look for in a whisk(e)y.

Maybe “oddity” is not the best descriptor.  Maybe they’re a bit of a loner and a rebel.  Yeah, that’s better.

You may have already read my review of Cask # 1 and/or Cask # 3.  Here are my notes for Cask # 4:

Lost-Spirits-Leviathan-cask-4On the nose –  The nose is noticeably malt-forward but the maltiness has a deep, dank cellar-like malted barley quality.

Almost humid in scent.

As with Cask # 3, we’re getting some Horse Hindquarters Here (a triple H, different than HHH a la “Pump Up the Volume”).

Mezcal-like in my book with the burnt quality (not so much peaty but burning smoke).

Whoa.  Grape “Bonkers” candies.

Heavy on the strawberry-jam-like sniffyness.

Dark millet cookies/biscuits minus any addition of cardamom powder.

Lost-Spirits-Leviathan-cask-4-2On the mouth –  Barrel char mixed with sweet red table wine.

Fleshy bits upon the peach pits (much like cask # 3).

I have to say that I’m very happy with the mouthfeel.  Oily, tongue coating and rich.

Nowhere near as smokey in flavor as it is in scent.  Very fruity, woody and winey with smoke around the edges reminding the dear drinker that yes, this is a peated whisky.

Lost-Spirits-Leviathan-cask-4-3And finally, some over ripened mango right before some tannin-y dryness kicks in…

Finish – Lasting and now some sweetened spicy notes emerge and dance about on the center of the tongue.

In sum – What can I say about this whiskey?  Well, it is very much a mood whiskey and a whiskey I could find myself in the mood for quite often.

While it is a big ‘ol peat monster it’s not trying to be Scotch whisky.  It really is it’s own animal and stands alone  (and quite tall) in the US Single Malt whisk(e)y arena.

Glenglassaugh’s latest official bottling – “Evolution” which is matured in George Dickel Tennessee whisky barrels

 

Highland region – 57.2%ABV – £57 | $93

Crack that whip / Give the past the slip / Step on a crack / Break your momma’s back

When a problem comes along
You must whip it

Before the cream sits out too long
You must whip it

When something’s going wrong
You must whip it

Now whip it, Into shape, Shape it up, Get straight, Go forward, Move ahead, Try to detect it, It’s not too late, To whip it.  Whip it good.

Don’t get me wrong, I love Devo as much as the next guy.  In fact, I likely love Devo way more than the next guy and think their music is quite genius but man, these lyrics go on and on and I never got them (but love the ever living snot out of the song).

I’m such a Devo-geek that as soon as I heard what Glenglassaugh was calling their 2nd bottling, Evolution, I thought of Devo.  (Who, by the way, got their band name from the concept of De-evolution – “the idea that instead of continuing to evolve, mankind has actually begun to regress, as evidenced by the dysfunction and herd mentality of American society“.)

Whatevs – rock and roll!!

And now, perhaps my favorite version of The Rolling Stones “Satisfaction”:

Ok, enough with my love of the Devo, let’s get on with my new found love of the Evo(lution)!

Glenglassaugh-1On the nose –  Another “confident” whisky here.

To start, a great and somewhat forceful interplay between churned butter, oodles of butterscotch and fresh white grapefruit.

Heaps of white pepper and vanilla wrapped in saran wrap and all warmed up (yes, this is a warming nose).

Glenglassaugh-2Did I mention butterscotch?  Yes, I did.  Just above.  It’s well worth another mention though…

Barley cakes & oat cakes.  Light lemon notes and soft leather gloves.

Glenglassaugh-4On the mouth – Perhaps it should have been called “Explosion.”  This dram bursts with that now classic Next-Gen Glenglassaugh fruity character.

It is, however, tempered quite well with the very Tennessee oak characteristics of vanilla, honey and spice.

Light malt laden flavors now and back again with white pepper and a bit of that grapefruit I got on the nose.

Glenglassaugh-3Oh. So. Butterscotchy.

Medium oil-like texture with some citrus zing on the sides of the tongue.

Finish – Heavy wood spice, toasted oak, long and slightly bourbony.

In sum – I bought a bottle the day it hit the Glenglassaugh store.  I had to have it.  Glenglassaugh matured in George Dickel barrels?  No brainer.

I obviously wanted to do a formal review of the whisky but went through half the bottle before I took actual notes (mainly because I just wanted to enjoy the whisky without dissecting it).  Like George Dickel, this is great sippin’ whisky.  Perfect for sitting on your porch or deck and letting the hours pass by…

Normally I do not like to mix cigars with my malts but I imagine this would go quite well with a cigar.  Perhaps a mild bodied one.

To Glenglassaugh, this whisky is an evolution in their new story (and a great story it is!)  For you as the consumer, this whisky is all about a little you time.  Relaxing times.  At only 6,000 bottles, you may want to to grab a bottle fast!

You may be interested in Oli’s notes on dramming.com

 

21yo Old Malt Cask Cragganmore bottle for the Loch and K(e)y Society. A Juio’s exculsive.

 

The bottle shown is not the actual bottle but, close enough.
The bottle shown is not the actual bottle but, close enough. Click the picture to be brought to Julio’s site. Contact them for more info.

Speyside region – 52.2% ABV – $99 (for now) and sold exclusively through Julio’s in Westboro, MA.

Here we are again; reviewing a store exclusive single cask of whisky.

If you live in the Northeast of the US, chances are you’ve heard of or frequent Julio’s in Westboro, MA.

Store owner and Keeper of the Quaich, Ryan Maloney, is known for having perhaps the most whisky-centric stores in our neck of the woods.  He also has his own whisky society called the Loch and K(e)y Society and bottles whisk(e)y for them on a very regular basis.  Loch and K(e)y are the first and only group to ever have a cask of Balvenie bottled exclusively for them.  (I had a taste once and it was a yummy, yummy thing).

I visited Julio’s a couple of weeks ago to pick up a bottle of George T Stagg and Ryan was nice enough to give me a taste of today’s whisky.  This is a cask of Cragganmore that he personally chose to bottle.

I fell in love with it almost immediately and when he told me it was only $99, I had to get a bottle.  Hey, it was my birthday.  How could I not buy myself a bottle?

So today, I’m reviewing one of my birthday whiskies (happy birthday, again, to me):

On the nose –  A charming start with whiffs of *faint* smoke and lavender.

CRAGGANMORE-21-OLD-MALT-CASK-JULIOS-2Quite clean and bright with lightly spiced Bartlett pears.  Applewood and unscented candle wax.

Heavenly, and decidedly malty.

I have to say, this nose is really, really good.  Again, clean and fruity and very, very confident.

CRAGGANMORE-21-OLD-MALT-CASK-JULIOS-3On the mouth – Loads of malted barley and very chewy.

Lively and oily, honied and spiced.

Still quite fruity with touches of light citrus.

CRAGGANMORE-21-OLD-MALT-CASK-JULIOS-4Hints of salt but not brine and now some hints of Limon.

Getting back to what I said before, this is a very confident whisky.  Drying and slightly smokey toward the finish.

Finish – A spritz of citrus, a dash of spice and some malt.  It goes on for a good bit here.

In sum – The more I think about this one the more I agree with the thought in my head that this is not the most complex whisky in the world. (My apologies for the horrible, run-on-like, structure of the preceding sentence.)

However, it’s not simple at all.  It’s easily understood and hides very little from you.

This is in my top ten list as one of the finer whiskies I’ve had this year from a rock-solid-satisfying-whisky standpoint.  If there were ever a self-actualized whisky, it would be this one.