A day in the life of… Stuart Nickerson, Managing Director of the Glenglassaugh Distillery – Part 1 of 2

And now for the third installation to my interview series.  As you may or may not know, I’ve decided to start this series of interviews to help demystify some of the many aspects of the whisk(e)y industry.  Who makes it, how they do it, how they got into it, how to they sell, promote it, market it, etc…  While this series is called “A Day in the Life”, it will focus on more than a day in the life of a Cooper, Sales Person, Ambassador, Master Blender, Independent reviewer/critic, etc…  Also, I will try to get a little personal (without making said person blush).

My third interviewee is Stuart Nickerson, Managing Director of the newly re-opened (2008) Glenglassaugh distillery.

Stuart, thank you SO MUCH for agreeing to be interviewed, for your great answers and the depth with which you went into!

Stuart has provided me (and you) with so much information here, I thought it’d be best to break the interview into two part.  Stay tuned for part two to be posted a week from today.  Mark your calendars for Thursday, July 15th, 2010 – part deux to my interview with Stuart Nickerson.  Until then, let part one of this great interview begin:

Joshua: Stuart, Glenglassaugh is a newly re-opened distillery (thankfully!).  Can you explain the history and reasons for it’s initial mothballing and the impetus for the re-opening?  Additionally, how did you become involved in the process?

Stuart: The distillery dates back to 1875 and was founded by James Moir who was a local philanthropist, he was also involved in bringing the telegraph and the train to the town and donated sums of money to local causes as well as gifting the town hall. After his death and the death of one of his two nephews who had helped to start the distillery, it was sold by the remaining nephew in 1892 to Robertson & Baxter who immediately sold it to Highland Distilleries for £15,000 (an increase of £5,000 over the purchase price)

Highland owned it ever since until 2008. They closed it in 1907 and it remained silent until 1959 when a new distillery was built on the site, making use of only one of the original malting buildings (for malt storage) and one of the original warehouses as well as a couple of the cottages for workers.

Following the re-build in 1959 it was opened in 1960 primarily to make a blending malt for the growing blends which were owned or managed by Highland, these include Cutty Sark, Lang’s Supreme and The Famous Grouse. However Glenglassaugh is complex Highland Whisky made from hard water with distinctive fruity aroma and taste rather than a light floral Speyside which is what Highland were looking for and which was already being produced at Glenrothes and Tamdhu. Highland tried in a number of ways to change the spirit, they increased the size of the spirit still, tried using water taken from Glenrothes and finally installed a water softner. None of this worked and so they closed the distillery in 1986 and instead they expanded Glenrothes. From their position this the best position for their business plan.

At the same time I was employed as Distillery Manager of Highland Park Distillery which was also owned by Highland. All the distillery managers were aware of the high quality of Glenglassaugh and enjoyed a dram of it. In 1987 I was asked to become Glenrothes Distillery Manager and at the same time Manger of the Glenglassaugh site which has a fairly large warehouse.

Fast forward to 2004 when I was keen to set-up my own business and left Wm Grant & Sons after 14 years, the last 9 of these as Distilleries Director. In 2006 I was asked by a group of investors to carry out due diligence on 2 malt distilleries which were operating and up for sale. For various reasons neither of these sales were concluded and I was then asked to find a distillery which they could buy and I had 3 criteria (1) It had to have heritage and so could not be a new-build (2) It had to be produce high quality whisky, and (3) it should have stocks.

I looked at what was available and several distilleries were considered and rejected for a number of reasons before I approached Edrington (who now owned Highland) and enquired about the availability of Glenglassaugh. They agreed in principle to the sale and there then followed a period of due diligence and creating the business plan before everything was accepted and we eventually took ownership on 29th February 2008.

During this period of time the shareholders asked that I stay on and run the business for them. Well it meant given up running my own business but the opportunity to continue what I had only just started, and also moving back to the North-East of Scotland, was too good an opportunity to miss and so I accepted.

Joshua: With the recent addition of Ronnie Routledge, it’s apparent that you are creating quite the strong team to take the distillery to new heights.  Can you give a brief list of who’s on the Glenglassaugh team, what they do and why they were chosen to come aboard?

Stuart: I have always worked with the philosophy that you employ people that are better than you within their field of operation, people that you can work with and people with the attitude and behaviors that fit the business, and for Glenglassaugh that means people that like a challenge, prepared to work outside their comfort zones and understand what it is to make a quality product and deliver all products and services to the best of our ability and to the highest standards.

Distillery Manager is Graham Eunson who started his career at Scapa Distillery, worked for a while at Glendronach and then moved to Glenmorangie where he was manager for 12 years.  (Graham and Stuart shown to the right nosing first run spirit on Dec 4th, 2008)

Ronnie Routledge is Customer Account Manager and joins us from Single Malts Direct/Duncan Taylor where he was retail manager, before that he was retail manager with Gordon & Macphail.

Peter Innes is our Bottling and Logistics Leader and previously worked with Duncan Taylor and Gordon & Macphail in similar positions.

Graeme Morrison is in charge of our warehouses and is ex-Chivas were he ran their Keith filling and warehouses operations. (Graeme Morrison shown to the left filling the first cask on December 16th, 2008)

Alan Willetts is our stillman and is ex-Glenmorangie.

Our other team members Ronnie Laurence, Neil McGarvie and Michelle Slater live locally and are new to the industry. Ronne and Neil are skilled tradesmen who can turn their hand to many things while Michelle shares her time between administration and bottling. We really are a multi-task team who do anything and everything!

Joshua: Currently, with the exception of your younger-than-3-years-old spirit drinks, the only expressions Glenglassaugh offers is a 21yr, 30yr and 40yr bottling.  As I understand it, these whiskies are not only old but they are rare which makes them a bit on the expensive side.  For those not familiar with Glenglassaugh, what can people expect from your whiskies?  Do you have a trademark flavor or flavors to your whiskies?  In essence, what makes Glenglassaugh stand out from a nose/palate/finish standpoint?

Stuart: Our new make spirit is very fruity, likened to “Eau de vie Poir” and these fresh fruits aromas and tastes can come through in the final whiskies but also develop into a medley of boiled fruits and spices with hints of liquorice and dark chocolate. They age extremely well in refilled casks which allow the flavours the time required to develop and marry.

You can find an extensive tasting of Glenglassaugh whiskies including many independent bottling which was carried out in Norway, here:  http://www.whiskychamber.com/a-%c2%absmall%c2%bb-glenglassaugh-vertical/

Joshua: In 2009, Glenglassaugh won 3 medals — two “Quality Awards” (for your 40yr & Cask Strength expressions) and one Gold Medal/Best in Class award.  At just a year into the re-opening of Glenglassaugh, how did this make you feel?  Additionally, how did you go about creating these award winning expressions?

Stuart: As you say we won Gold Medal (best in class) and the trophy for Best Cask Strength Scotch at the International Wine and Spirits Competition for our 30 year old and we also won Gold Medal (best in class) and the trophy for Best 40 year old Scotch Whisky at the same competition. We were also awarded 96 points in Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible 2010 for our 40 year old and 94 points for our 21 year old and then recently at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition we won a double gold medal for our 21 year old.

These awards have absolutely delighted myself and the rest of the team, it justifies the shareholders decision to buy the distillery and our faith in what we are doing here.

In many ways we are in an enviable position having a stock which consists of mainly excellent whiskies and a number of these are simply outstanding. However we would like even more of them!

We create the single cask whiskies by a rigorous nosing and tasting system which involves everyone in the company in the initial selection process with the final decision coming down to a core of 3 of us. However it doesn’t stop there because we need to know that after the cask has been emptied that the nose and taste are still the same and more importantly we need to check again after bottling and before releasing for sales.

We are fortunate in that I do not believe in chill-filtration or colouring and I believe that all single malts should be bottled at cask-strength so therefore there is less risk of the whisky changing between sampling in the cask and the final bottled sample.

Joshua: When you and I spoke on the phone, you had mentioned that you are currently working on establishing US distributions.  What are the trials and tribulations?  Also, is this for your current offering or for new whiskies as well? (Dear reader, just think, the kids in the picture to the left will be old enough to enjoy Glenglassaugh when they release their 18yr expression!)

Stuart: We have an importer appointed, Purple Valley Imports Inc., but have still to ship any spirit. The biggest frustration is getting our labels approved and then working through the three tier system that is used in the USA and the different ways that it is operated in different states.

Purple Valley will be distributing all of our products which now start with a 26 year old, then “Aged over 30 years” and “Aged over 40 years”. We also have a 200ml triple pack of the three older whiskies (26 year old, 37 year old and 43 year old)

The Spirit Drinks, which are not yet 3 years old, will also be available in 200ml bottles and at 50% abv, these are “Clearac” which is new spirit before it is filled, “Peated” which is also new spirit but it has been produced with peated malt, then there is “Blushes” which is the result of 6 months in Californian red wine barrels and finally “Fledgling XB” which is the result of 12 months maturation in ex-Bourbon barrels.

Joshua: On that same phone conversation you had told me that you basically have the freedom to create what you’d like for the future of the distillery.  This being said, what can we, as consumers, expect for the future of Glenglassaugh and what’s the time frame?

Stuart: Firstly we have been experimenting with different cask types as we are looking to find what casks work best with Glenglassaugh and how the spirit/whisky differs from each type and so over the next 18 months there will be further releases of our Spirit Drinks where the spirit had been maturing for longer and from different cask types.

We will release a 3 year old in 2012 although we have not yet decided from which type of cask(s) this will be. There will probably be further aged releases in future years until the whisky becomes at least 10 year old and eventually our main age will become either a 10 or 12 year old.

In general we are very pleased with all of the maturing new spirit and I am convinced that our policy of buying top quality casks from USA and Europe will be beneficial for the consumer and so ourselves as the whisky is bottled and sold.

Joshua: From the standpoint of the managing director of the Glenglassaugh distillery, what would you say your biggest obstacles are in progressing the sales and awareness of your current and future whiskies?

Stuart: There are really quite a few challenges and they will remain for quite some time although obviously we are working on them all. The first one is the fact that the distillery was shut for 22 years which gives us two headaches, firstly the distillery is relatively unknown because we were shut for so long and so there is an exercise just to raise awareness. Related to this is the fact that Highland never pushed Glenglassaugh and so never developed the brand name, there were a small number of individual releases and a number of independent bottling which meant that we did start with number of people in Europe who were aware of Glenglassaugh and realised the quality of it.

The second issue from the shutdown is the lack of inventory which is younger than 24 years and older than 18 months! This means that our aged whiskies are rare, but thankfully of the highest quality which means that once people have tasted them then we find it easier to sell.

Probably the biggest issues are the same ones which face many small companies, lack of human resources and lack of cash flow. We have plenty of ideas and some fantastic potential projects but with only a small team it means that we can’t do everything that we want to do within the time scale that we would want.

Joshua: Recently, there’s been a lot of buzz around new make spirit, white dog, moonshine… call it what you will.  Without going into the arguments for or against it, what are your reasons for making your “Spirit Drink That Dare Not Speak It’s Name” new make spirit available for mass consumption?

Part 2 to this interview can be found here.

St. Magdalene 1982/2009 Dun Bheagan 50% Cask #2219

Lowlands region – 50%ABV – 700ml Bottle – Dun Bheagan Cask #2219 – 390 bottles – £150

I received a sample of this great lowland whisky (Thanks to dramming.com!!) quite a few months ago and held off on tasting it as I wanted to wait for the right moment.  It’s limited, for sure, but also this is whisky from a distillery that stopped producing in 1983 (I was 10 years old) so I wanted to make sure I was in tip top shape and able to taste this with out any hinderance and/or obstruction (colds, spicy dinner, etc…).

Other things of note to happen in 1983 are:

  • High ranking Nazi war criminal Klaus Barbie is arrested in Bolivia (and was convicted).
  • The Tokyo Disneyland opens.
  • The Nintendo Entertainment System goes on sale in Japan.
  • Kiss officially appeared in public without makeup for the first time on MTV.
  • U.S. President Ronald Reagan signs a bill creating a federal holiday on the third Monday of every January to honor American civil rights leader Martin Luther King Jr.
  • Again, I turned 10 (man, look at that big Jew nose!).

Whisky notes are as follows:

On the nose A fruit basket nose that Edible Arrangements only wishes they could match.

Big lemony citrus notes (imagine Ardbeg lemons without big peat).  Chocolate notes, workman’s gloves.

Sugar and vanilla smooths it out but there’s a great spicy backbone to it.

On the mouth Strange entry.  Imagine all of the above mentioned flavors in a shoddy ziplock bag.

While I’m not referring to a plasticy note to the palate, I mean that the flavors seem somehow encapsulated within a baggie or bubble (which happens to be covered by a slight salty coating).

It get increasingly hot and a warm spiciness returns.

A touch of water brings out some very nice chewy toffee notes to it an pops that baggie or bubble and all of those flavors I got on the nose came pouring out.

Finish Long, citrus zing, spice, nice.

In sumThe spice in this whisky runs all the way through, so even keeled.

Wonderful as an every night summer dram… if you’re Daddy Warbucks.

Not sure what to think of the initial palate entry but I’ve got a lot of respect for this whisky.

Glad I had a chance to taste it and wish I had more.

Happy America Day! (plus a Tuthilltown Hudson single malt whiskey review)

Hey y’all – I thought I’d wish my American compadres a Happy Forth of July!  And, in a strange way, wish our northernly neighbors a belated Happy Canada Day.  How are the two connected?  Well, they are connected in many ways, I’m sure, but the only one I care about right now is whiskey!

Recently, I tried Tuthilltown Spirit’s Hudson Single Malt Whiskey.  A single malt that uses 100% Canadian malted barley.  That’s right, the US and Canada joining schwartzes is the best way I can think of – to make great New York whiskey.

Straight to the review now:

Upstate New York, USA — 46%ABV — 375ml bottle – $40 (no non-USA distribution that I am currently aware of though the Tuthilltown Spirits group is now a proud member of the William Grant & Sons family)

On the nose There’s a huge damp quality to this nose; almost like damp laundry (clean cotton notes for sure).

Sweet honeyed carrots and parsnips.

It actually almost has a corn like quality to it though this IS a single malt with no grain influence.  Must be the interaction with those cute small barrels they use.

Cinnamon (hot cinnamon, like big red chewing gum, not cinnamon as with apples or pears) and candied nuts.

On the mouth Big cinnamon attack!  The final notes I detected in the nose ramped up with a Big Red freshness that lasted right through to the palate.

Brown sugar sweetness and orangey Jaffe Cakes.  Clove cigarettes.

Finish A blast of oak and biscuits, quite numbing even at 46%.  My mouth usually only gets this way after a cask strength whisk(e)y (50% or more).

In sum This is a pick-me-up sort of whiskey.  A nice way to start the day (if that’s your sort of thing) but, most importantly, a nice way to say Happy Birthday America; you sweet & spicy thang you!  And, Happy Canada Day (albeit a few days late) to my kanuckian brothers & sistas to the north!

The Whisky Round Table discussions continue…

Last month a group of 12 prominent whisky bloggers (12 blogs actually… some blogs have multiple bloggers) banded together to answer a monthly question.  I am thankful to Jason of Guid Scotch Drink to consider me prominent enough to be a knight and join schwartzes with this great group.

The valiant knights (and links to their blogs) of this round table are:

Chris – Nonjatta
Keith – Whisky Emporium
Karen & Matt – Whisky For Everyone
Ruben – Whisky Notes
Mark – Glasgow’s Whisky (And Ale)
Neil & Joel – Caskstrength.net
Lucas & Chris – Edinburgh Whisky Blog
Jason – Guid Scotch Drink
Gal – Whisky Israel
Mike – Whisky Party
Peter – The Casks
Joshua – The Jewish Single Malt Whisky Society

Back on June 1, 2010, the first question was posed: “What rules have you set for yourself in your whisky lives and how have you rationalized breaking them?” – you can view all of the answers to this great question here.

This month, I decided to pose a question (a three-part question actually) to the group.  The question in question been posed to me by many readers of my blog: “How did you develop you “nose” and “palate”?  What was your turning point for actually trusting what you were smelling and tasting?  What do you do, if anything, to strengthen your senses and/or help your smell and taste to grow?”

Chris from NonjattaThis is a great question because in my opinion it comes to the heart of the fundamental dilemma of whisky and any other sort of tasting.  I developed my nose and palate in the womb or at least in early childhood as does everybody else who tastes whisky. The sensitivity of my palate and nose has probably only deteriorated since then.

My mind’s ability to put words to those sense impressions has, of course, developed but the ability to put words to something is not the same as genuinely developing a sense. In fact, in my opinion, there is something about any description of reality, even when one is only describing it to oneself, that simplifies and removes the describer. It is like trying to hold a small bird in your hand. The act of grasping kills it.  I trust what I am smelling and tasting when I just smell and taste it, just as I trust what I am smelling and tasting when I smell field when I am walking through it, or smell a urinal when I am standing at it. I do not trust what I am smelling and tasting when I am trying to describe it, either to myself or to others. And there is the dilemma at the heart of whisky tasting, but also at the heart of so many more important parts of our societies, because the need and desire to communicate an experience to others, or even just to grasp the experience in language for your own self, is, in my opinion, inevitably about removing yourself from a sense impression, compromising it with similes and metaphors, simplifying it and cutting it off from itself. A whisky is never really “caramel like” or “smoky”. It is whisky. And yet we have to resort to this morse code to communicate with others and ourselves.

So the answer to the second part of the question is that I only trust my nose and palate when I just drink whisky without any idea of trying to catch it on the wing. What I do in order to strengthen my senses and help my smell and taste to grow, is to just relax and try to be an alcohol drinking child… in a responsible, not actually suggesting under-age drinking sort of way, of course.

Keith from Whisky Emporium Joshua, are you really asking me to make sense of my senses? Even I don’t understand them so how can I possibly try to explain them to others?

But even so, let me try to briefly address each of your points in turn;

Did I actually ‘develop’ my nose and palate? I’m not aware of doing anything drastic in this area other than waking up one fine day, sticking my nose in a glass of whisky and suddenly finding myself extolling the myriad of virtues of the dram.

The turning point for trusting what I was doing? This is an excellent question in so far as you have isolated one very important concept here; Trust. It really is a case of trusting or having faith not in what one is tasting or nosing, but in how one interprets those experiences and then conveys the information to others.

How to strengthen one’s senses? I’m really not convinced that one can ‘strengthen’ the senses in this respect, but if you had asked about ‘broadening one’s experience’ then I may have agreed that this whole idea of conveying whisky attributes to others is based mainly upon personal experience(s).

Please allow me to broaden this concept a little after my somewhat glib answers above;

One should try to sample as many different expressions and styles of whisky as possible in order to build a base knowledge or perhaps even some kind of personal ‘database of experience’ for later comparison. I believe our senses work more on aspects of comparison than immediate recognition, so the more base information you have to compare against, the better positioned you are.

I must also stress that a serious nosing & tasting should take some time. This isn’t a case of stick yer nose in the glass, have a quick sniff then knock it back and hold out your glass for another. Be gentle, careful and patient with a good whisky, giving it time will often reward accordingly. I have even experienced some drams whose noses improved beyond belief over the space of an hour. Also, allow the whisky to come to you, don’t try and force it!

Finally, one point I stress to anyone (and everyone) attending my tastings, masterclasses or just sitting enjoying a dram with me is not to get hung up on specific descriptors. You don’t need to find liquorice, vanilla, currants, nuts or any other of the ‘standard’ elements that are often spoken of. If you find the interior of a dodgy old Ford Escort, a pair of green wellies or a lump of chewy treacle toffee from your childhood, then that’s fine. It’s all about your ‘experieces’ (there’s that word again) and not those of others.

Finally, finally, when you do sit down to enjoy a wee dram and you allow it some time, allow also your mind to open and take a wander through your life’s experiences. You don’t need to look for anything in particular, but you may be surprised how the complex aromas from a single malt may suddenly open a little gateway in your memory and suddenly take you back to another time and place that you thought was lost forever.

If I’m allowed to paraphrase an old saying, I guess what I really mean is take your time, relax, close your eyes, open your mind, lay back and think of Scotland!

Gal from Whisky Israel When i first was introduced into single malts and started my ‘malt mania’ i did not really nose my whiskies as i do today, i first was overwhelmed how good whiskies can be taste and smell wise, but at that stage i was learning to like it more and more. Anyways, i first started drinking my whiskies in the regular tumbler which is not very helpful to nosing, only after reading some blogs and watching online nosing session, i realised I’ve been missing on it, and started really to nose and to taste seriously.

My turning point to trusting my nose was actually in a discussion with Serge of Whisky fun. We had very different notes regarding a dram (i think it was Octomore) and he said that: No wonder we have different notes, as we have different Noses… The important issues are to follow your instincts, and call what you get in the nose / palate. different people will sense different things and that’s ok.

I do think that by sampling a lot of different types of malts and not limiting yourself to only peated / sherry / young / old etc malts your sense of smell and your perception of smells and tastes will improve. I do try to sample new malts as much as i can, be it with new purchases, or when visiting friends, and mostly by trading samples with other whisky folk. This way, your senses will learn to detect many new odors and flavors.

Another great way to improve your nosing abilities is to read as much as tasting notes as you can, and of course Guid scotch drink’s ‘say, what?!’. I’ve learned quite a few things from there, mostly about odors that I couldn’t put my finger on (Parma violets for example), and reading about it, understanding how people describe those notes are very helpful for your future nosing/tasting abilities.

Often I do find myself nosing a dram and then reading what others said about it, and wondering to myself : is my nose that dull? How can’t I pick up all those lovely scents of dust, nail varnish, car seats etc (as bizarre as nosing notes do get). I’ve come to accept we do differ in the scents that we pick up, some of us have great noses, and some are more average.

So my advice to whisky newbies : Do not despair. Try to nose as many malts as you can, you may not pick up every single note that Jim Murray / Serge / Dave Broom picked up. So what?! Enjoy the nose, take your time.  Experiment, and trust your instincts!

And more important, enjoy it, Dramming is great!

Mark from Glasgow’s Whisky (And Ale) Tastings, tastings, tastings. That’s pretty much how I developed and am still developing my nose and palate. I joined a whisky club and attend whatever masterclasses and festivals I can where I discuss with others what they can sense and see if I can perceive the same notes. I have also sat at home with whisky in front of me with the intention of writing tastings notes which also focusses your thinking towards what you can smell and taste. I think the more whiskies you try the more you begin to find common notes throughout and then you can pick up on those right away. As the old saying goes, “Practise makes perfect”!

Go to distilleries and do the tour. They will suggest what the characteristics of their whisky are. See if you agree. Read the tasting notes on bottles and in books and see if you agree with those too. But don’t take them as the notes that you must find. It’s all subjective so find your own notes and use your own memories of smells and tastes to create something a bit more personal. After all, nobody is wrong. If it smells like your dog after a swim in the local canal then who can say otherwise?

Ruben from Whisky NotesI’ve found two things really important to develop my (whisky) senses: curiosity and people. Curiosity because I’ve always wanted to know how unknown things smell or taste. I like cooking and eating, I know a few things about herbs and other ingredients… When on vacation, I want to discover local fruits or special dishes. Sooner or later this will all pop up as an assocation. Secondly people, because sharing your thoughts makes you see different things. Especially women, I would add, because I have been amazed a number of times about how good women are at pinning down smells and flavours, even when they’re not whisky drinkers. Experienced whisky conoisseurs (in person or through their reviews) are even more interesting of course, as they’ve built up a library of possible flavour profiles. They can make you discover new things or find the right wording.

Peter from The CasksOne of the best things one can do to develop one’s nose and palate is to date a sommelier. In fact, I’ve enjoyed it so much, I’ve decided to marry one. My fiancé (let’s call her Sherry Butts) really made sense of tasting, creating and using a palate “library”, and integrating as much knowledge as possible of ingredients, production and terroir to help describe a drink. Probably the closest thing to an “ah ha!” moment for me was the realization that tasting something like whisky in this way is an analytical and intellectual process as much as it is a sensory one.  We all know what a raspberry looks and tastes like. When we pick one up and pop one in our mouth, there are familiar colors and flavors that confirm to our sense memory that yep, that’s a raspberry. However, we don’t always stop to consciously and deliberately commit it to a taste memory of “raspberry” with the idea of calling to mind its characteristics later. That idea has really helped me to expand my palate and make it more accessible. The best way to improve and grow one’s palate should come as a great relief to all of us:  practice, practice, practice (not getting a nostril enlargement which, it turns out, is an illegal procedure in the US). The more I taste and the wider variety of whiskies I’m exposed to can only help expand my ability to describe things accurately. Also, I think it’s important to taste with other people on occasion. Every time I’ve tasted with a group, I’m always impressed by the different approaches people take in tasting and describing. Someone else will always find a characteristic that I didn’t notice and vice versa. I think that kind of simultaneous discussion and tasting is a great way to improve on and trust in your own way of thinking about whiskies.

Not sure about you folks but after all this reading, I could use a breather!  Please enjoy this intermission:

Back to the answers:

Karen & Matt from Whisky For EveryoneWe feel that our collective ‘nose’ and ‘palate’ are still developing and will always continue to, as you add new experiences, aromas, flavours in to the mix.  Initially two years ago, when we knew much less about whisky than now, the idea of the nose and palate and what you should be getting out of them was a daunting thing.  This is especially true if you are in the company of people with more experience or people who think they have more experience than you!  The turning point came when we realised that there are no wrong answers when smelling or tasting whisky and not to be intimidated by what is in the glass.

Do you ever really trust your senses?  We think that you should never fully trust them, as then there is a danger that you can become dictatorial and ‘always right’.  We actively seek other opinions and reviews of whiskies that we are sampling and writing about, as someone will have picked up something that we haven’t or vice versa. Everyone has different taste buds and will get different things out of the same whisky.  That is what makes the amount of whisky blogs sustainable, as everyone’s experiences, tastes, opinions on certain brands and styles of writing are all different.

The most important thing to grow your senses and whisky knowledge is to keep experimenting and trying new things.  For example, we have recently sampled combinations between chocolate and whisky.  It was amazing how the different combinations brought out different characteristics in both the chocolate and the whisky.  This was especially true when doing something as simple as tasting the whisky first and then the chocolate and vice versa – the same chocolate and whisky would exhibit new flavours when tasted in a different order.

Jason from Guid Scotch Drink While at Aberdeen University I was fortunate to take a nosing/tasting course with Jim McEwan (then of Bowmore, now of Bruichladdich).  He taught the group how to bring the glass in from the right in order to not overwhelm the senses, how to hold the spirit in our mouths, and how to judge the finish.  He also taught us a great trick, that I still pass on to this day, that helps gauge whether the whisky in your glass is cask strength or not.  All in all, he laid a great foundation for my whisky tasting education.

Whenever I see Michael Jackson, Dave Broom, Jim Murray, John Hansell, Serge Valentin, or now a host of whisky bloggers make the same observation as me it reinforces that I know what I’m doing when tasting a new expression.  However, I also enjoy those moments when a completely different note appears out of nowhere, especially notes that connect me to a distant personal memory.  The recent Master of Malt 26 Year Old Bowmore took me back to being a wee lad buying penny sweets at my local corner shop in Ayr, Scotland.  How can one question a moment like that?

I try and strengthen my senses everyday.  If I’m in a baker’s shop I pay close attention to the smell of the bread, the sweet pastries, the yeast in the background, the sun coming through the window.  I’m forever in my pantry opening different spice jars, smelling and tasting the contents.  Local farmer’s markets and farms also provide a great opportunity to gather up new smells and tastes.  Really, I just try to pay attention to everything around me and store away key notes for later use.  I also like trying to find notes from others in my everyday life.  Ruben’s “farmy” notes have stuck with me and I pay close attention to that when I’m in the country or visiting different farms.

Neil and Joel from Caskstrength.netNoses and palates come in all shapes and sizes- the beauty of a great whisky is that one man’s lint bandages can be another man’s coal dust. You have to place implicit trust in your nose holes- what you smell is what you get. Don’t take anyone else’s findings as read.

To keep my nose in check, I decided that every day I should try to discover a new aroma, be it an exotic flower, food or pet.  I’ve yet to detect the faint whiff of chinchilla cages in a vintage Ledaig, but it might crop up… you never know.

Mike from Whisky PartyHow did you develop you “nose” and “palate”?

One thing on which all three of us agree, contrary to your doctor’s recommendation to drink more red wine, is to ‘keep drinking [whisky]’, as well as varying and contrasting the styles, and, most importantly, adding a mental element to each tasting.  The latter has meant, for us, to ‘think’ through each inhale, being conscious of the aromas and flavours (“to describe exactlywhat you are smelling and tasting”), and then, ideally, to retain that information over time whereby one can quickly access an organized storehouse of physiological data.  For Mike F., reading the opinions and tasting notes of others has helped make verbal sense of the various reactions the brain has to different aromas and flavours, thereby enhancing this mental database of sensory reactions.

What was your turning point for actually trusting what you were smelling and tasting?

Dan hit his stride when his notes started to consistently overlap with those of other writers, whereas Mike C. has never been concerned with agreement or a personal sense of accuracy (“the conversation is about our differences, not the backslapping that comes when we’re all on the same page”).  Mike F. got comfortable with his nose/palate once he found a good system for discerning flavours and aromas and writing about them, which took six or seven months of “serious” tasting and blog writing.  Building a knowledge base about how all types of whiskies are made, what physical flavour compounds might be extant (eg, limonene, which is present in both lemon rind and Glenmorangie), etc., has helped his system.

What do you do, if anything, to strengthen your senses and/or help your smell and taste to grow?

As for improvement, I think all of us can be considered slackers to some degree.  Other than continuing the basic processes of tasting, thinking, writing, and reading, we don’t do much olfactory exercise.  But Mike F. has tried to expand his palate by applying it to as much food and drink as possible—in a casual sort of way.  Not sure if that has helped with whisky, but writing about whisky has certainly helped understand everything else a bit better.

Joshua (umm, that’s me.  Your humble host) from Jewish Single Malt Whisky Society

Well, I didn’t develop my nose.  I am developing it and I don’t think that that development will ever end (I sure as shit hope it doesn’t).  I can say that my obsession with developing my senses started with my reading comic books as a kid and actually thinking that real-life superheroes wear deaf and blind people.  Seriously.

My thought was: once one of their (they being the deaf, dumb or blind) senses were gone they had to hone the other sensory skills to make up for it (imagine Gene Wilder and Richard Pryor from the movie See No Evil, Hear No Evil as super heroes… I can).  So, as I child (say 8 or 9 years of age) I would alway try to figure things out with my nose while my eyes were closed.  I was able to determine what kind of cat food my kitties would be eating for their next meal.  Grab a cat food can blindly, open it, sniff it… Is it salmon?  Is it whitefish?  I got good.  I still do it but now I do it with whisky.

With regards to trusting what my nose and tongue was telling me…  I knew what I was smelling I just could not think of how the heck to describe it or, more importantly, because I am a very visual person, put a mental picture in my head of it.  I knew there were complex flavors in these whiskies I was tasting.

To kick start my schnoz, I used other writters and bloggers’ notes to help me visualize of what I was tasting.  I would pour a dram then go to Serge’s Whisky Fun website, Dr. Whisky’s blog, read Jim Murray Whisky Bible to see if my brain would see what they could smell and taste.  It took a while but I started getting some “ah-ha!” moments.  From that point on, I was able to trust that I could put words to what I was smelling.  This exercise also gave me a good list of writers to follow.  Writers I knew who had similar palates to mine.  So, if I was ever stumped or just not getting something, I could go to their notes for help.  I still read 15+ blogs but there are a select few who I know I can go to to help me should I need it.

How do I strengthen my senses?  Non-stop tasting and non-stop reading.  When reviewing or discovering new whiskies, I always smell and taste with my eyes closed (after I gauge the color of the whisky) and ALWAYS in my comfy spot next to my wife down in the family room after the kids go to bed.  The day is done.  I’m with my special lady friend.  I am at ease with the world and can truly taste some fancy-ass whiskies!

L’chayim/Slainte/Cheers!

Rick’s Mystery Dram series – Week 5 of 10 – Sample #5

Wow, I can’t believe that this series is half way over!  The journey has be great so far.  Rick, thank you.

As I mentioned in the 3rd post for this “Rick’s Mystery Dram” Series, I’ve decided to make this a wee bit more interesting by sending out a mystery dram to the correct guesser of the week’s mystery dram or, if there has been no correct guess, the sample goes to a commenter (randomly chosen).  Last week, Matt L of Houston TX won the mystery dram – and he has requested a Scotch whisky sample.  Matt, it’s on its way to you, thanks for posting your guess!  I hope you keep coming back.

Details on how to win a mystery dram sample (which will be Scotch or American whisk(e)y, your choice) are listed below, after the review.

For previous “Rick’s Mystery Dram” entries :

Here’s Mystery Dram #1 (which ended up being Parker’s Heritage First Edition)

Here’s Mystery Dram #2 (which ended up being Parker’s Heritage Golden Anniversary)

Here’s Mystery Dram #3 (which ended up being Evan Williams Single Barrel, 2000 vintage, barrel # 234)

Here’s Mystery Dram #4 (which ended up being Tonala 4 year Anejo tequila)

Review time!  And, by the way, this is an American whiskey again.

On the nose A big spicy nose filled with chewy nougats and nuts (the roasted kind you get at a state fair; for my US readers).

Woody spice, orange marmalade…  That chewy nougatty goodness keeps me coming back.

There’s rye in here for sure but it seems as if it’s not a youthful rye, the spice is big but round.

On the mouth The entry is thinner than water and much spicier than the nose had suggested.  Say huh!?  Not what I was expecting with that lush nougat  and marmalade I got on the nose…

This is an easy drinker but, similar to mystery dram # 2, I found that the drop off from the nose to the palate a bit off-putting.  Spiced oak starts to arrive…

Finish Wait a sec, the finish is ramping up here. Oh, this is making it worth it.  That woodiness comes back with a vengeance.  It’s getting big here in a real toasted oak sort of way.

In sumStrange.  If I were to just nose this I would have told you that this is most likely around the 50% ABV range.  Tasting it was another thing completely; I would have said 43-46% (with some sort of a wheat element to smooth out the tasting experience.  After the swallow, however, (and in fact, just prior to it), the spice began to build up and burn so now I’m back to a higher ABV – perhaps in the 50% range.  I liked this bourbon.  The palate left me wanting (a bit) but that nose was great!  A dram of this would be a nice way to unwind and end the day.

Clues

  • I’m guessing a clear rye influence – perhaps a rye whiskey (or a heavily toasted barrel to add flavor)
  • Thin mouth feel, smooth (perhaps some from the addition of wheat into the mash bill)
  • Powerful finish with a good amount of woodiness

JMSWS antes up!

For those who attempt to guess – each week I will be sending out one mystery dram (a small 5cl bottle) and the first person guesses correctly wins the dram.  Actually, if there are no correct guesses for the week then a winner will be chosen at random.  You win whether your right or not (like a weatherperson – right or not, s/he still has a job)!

So again, I will be awarding a free whisk(e)y sample every week to one lucky winner (whether you guess correctly or not).

How do I enter to win you ask?

Easy, comment on this post with what you think the mystery dram of the week may be.  It’s that simple.

I will let you choose the type of mystery dram — Scotch or American Whiskey (though that’s all you’ll know about it).  And if you’d like, you can send me your tasting notes and I’ll post them for my readers to guess at.  If you’d prefer the blind tasting to be between just you and me… that’s cool too.

I drink booze, and sometimes I talk about it.