All posts by Jewmalt

SuperJew, Husband, Father, Scotch aficionado, Musician, Whisky Society President

A day in the life of… Alan Shayne, President of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America (SMWSA)

And now for the fourth installation to my interview series.

As you may or may not know, I’ve started series of interviews to help demystify some of the many aspects of the whisk(e)y industry.  Who makes it, how they do it, how they got into it, how to they sell, promote it, market it, etc…  While this series is called “A Day in the Life”, it will focus on more than a day in the life of a Cooper, Sales Person, Ambassador, Master Blender, Independent reviewer/critic, etc…  Also, I will try to get a little personal (without making said person blush).

I am pleased as punch to have had the opportunity to interview Alan Shayne, President of the American arm of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS).

Alan, thank you kindly for the interview!  Our conversations have been informative and entertaining – you’ve got great stories to tell, much more than we’re able to post here on the JSMWS blog.  At least my readers will have the opportunity to enjoy the following:

Joshua:  Alan, please explain who you are and what you do for The Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America – on a day-to-day basis (or week to week, month to month if that makes it easier).

Alan: I am the President of the Scotch malt Whisky Society of America. I direct the U.S. branch of the Society.  Among my duties are overseeing the communications that go out to the members, choosing the whiskies we offer to our members, coordinating members orders through our import company and network of distributors and retailers, overseeing our tasting events, compliance with federal and state regulators and overseeing all financial matters.

Joshua: How was it that you came to open the US branch of the SMWS?  How long ago did the US branch open and what had you done prior to this?

Alan: My involvement with the Society begin in 1993 when I was introduced to Pip Hills, the founder of the Society. Pip was interested in finding a partner for the North American market who could work hand in hand to make the Society a success here. At the time I was a partner in an alcoholic beverage import company, based in New York. I was very intrigued with what Pip had to say and a few months later in August of 1993 we officially began business. My history in the industry began in 1972 when I opened NY’s first wine themed night club. I took a 4 year hiatus from the liquor industry after selling the club in 1973, spending 4 years in law enforcement in NYC. In 1977 I purchased my father’s interest in a display and merchandising company servicing the liquor industry and sold it in 1983. I was then appointed US Marketing Director for Bell’s Scotch Whisky. In 1986, I co-founded Codorniu USA a wholly owned subsidiary of Cordoniu SA the world’s largest produced of Methode Champenois sparkling wine. In 1986, I co-founded Blair Importers, Inc. and sold my interest in that company in 1993 when I launched the Society in the US.

Joshua: When we spoke on the phone, you had touched on your boating & distillery tour of Scotland back when you were about to open the US branch of the SMWS.  Can you share that again?

Alan: After my meeting with Pip in NY, I decided to take a trip over to Scotland to visit the Vaults, the Society’s headquarters, a number of distilleries and experience a members tasting in London. Flying to London first, I went to my first members tasting at the Plaza Athenaeum Hotel. I essentially sat back and observed. It was phenomenal seeing a group of about 100 like minded individuals, from every walk of life, happily interacting over some very fine malts. I experienced the camaraderie and knew instinctively that this would be well received in America.

We then flew to Glasgow where Pip had arranged the charter of a old trawler out of Troon harbor. We sailed to Campbeltown and visited the Springbank distillery, sampling way too many expressions and enjoying a fine dinner with the proprietor. Upon leaving the restaurant we experienced a storm heading to the dock. I figured we would sleep on the boat and set sail in the morning, but to my surprise I was told that we would be leaving now. Having been a boater for most of my life and taking a rather conservative approach to traveling in storms in the dead of night, I was convinced that this might very well be my last voyage. I went down to my snuggly cabin, opened a bottle of Society whisky and consumed a good amount before falling asleep. Awakening at sunrise I went on deck to find the Pip and the crew thoroughly drenched and shivering. I put up a pot of coffee and took the helm, guiding the boat into Port Ellen on Islay and most pleased to be alive. We later visited the Bowmore Distillery. After sailing back to Troon, we took a train to Edinburgh and went to The Vaults. That too was a most enlightening experience, staying over in the members flats and enjoying the members room with blazing fireplaces in a Victorian setting and sampling the largest array of single cask malts I’ve seen to date.

Joshua: Also, during that phone conversation, you touched on the fact that there’s an ever changing group of tasters who gather together to choose the SMWS bottles to be made available for it’s society members.  Can you name some of the people on this board and how they came to be a part of it?

Alan: The process by which the tasting panel chooses the Society’s whiskies is most interesting. The ever changing panel members, made up of industry professionals meets every week. They are presented cask samples for tasting analysis without the benefit of knowledge of the distillery of origin or age of the whiskies. If all members of the panel agree on the uniqueness and fine quality of a cask, we purchase it. If any member doesn’t like it, we pass on that cask.

I estimate we turn away about 75% of the casks we are offered. Panel members in the past have included noted writer Charles McLean, Heather Greene, Sam Simmons, David Blackmore among others. Heather, Sam and David began their careers in the Scotch whisky industry at the Society. Whiskies that are not chosen are usually sold off to blenders.

Although the scrutiny of the panel for Society bottlings, most are perfectly fine to be used in blends. To the best of my understanding about 90% of malts produced are used for blended whisky.

Joshua:  After the whiskies are chosen for the SMWS, how are they chosen for the SMWSA and what happens to those whiskies not chosen for the SMWSA?

Alan: Once a cask has passed muster, a list of those are forwarded to the different branches of the Society. Upon review I select the ones I believe to be most interesting for our US members. I then requisition samples for my own analysis and place my orders for the US members.

Joshua: For those not familiar, can you explain the reason why the SMWS (and all of it’s international branches) will not use distillery names and only a number coding system?

Alan: Since the Society’s inception, rather than printing the distillery of origin on our label, we use a coding system to identify the whiskies we bottle. We recognize that single casks are unique in flavor and bouquet and do not necessarily exhibit the same characteristics of that of a proprietary labeled brand. Single malt Scotch whisky is produced by taking a number of matured casks form a particular distillery and judiciously marrying them together to get a uniform taste. They are then diluted to the brands’ standard, and chill filtered to remove any discoloration that resulted from the dilution process.

We don’t believe it is to the best interest of the distiller for our members to identify a particular distillery by name as it implies a similarity. Our whiskies most often do not taste the same as that of a distillery labeled bottle. We choose whiskies that are not only very good, but very diverse to that which one would find bottled under a proprietary label. Diversity of flavors and scents are what Society whiskies are all about.

Joshua: I mentioned to you, Alan, that after I posted my review of one of your whiskies one of my readers said that they LOVED the review but the initially fee for membership (at $229) scared them away.  What do you say when you hear things like this and are there any other obstacles you can think of to increasing your membership?

Alan: There is a cost to becoming a Society member. We are a private membership club. Our whiskies are available to our members exclusively and are not commercially available to the general public. The $229.00 initial membership fee, we believe to be very reasonable. It includes an initiation fee, first year dues ($60.00) the new members kit featuring 4-100 ml bottles of Society whisky, a leather bound members handbook, tasting notebook and membership pin. Members receive the Society’s quarterly magazine ‘Unfiltered’ and every three weeks ‘Outturn’ the Society’s bottling lists. Members are invited to use members rooms in London and Edinburgh, Scotland and are invited to participate in members tastings throughout the world. The cost of procuring Society bottling is very reasonable especially older expressions.

Joshua: Every year there is a SMWSA extravaganza tour for tasting your whiskies.  Can you explain what this is and what people might expect from these events?

Alan:  Along with traditional members tastings, the Society hosts The Single Malt and Scotch Whisky Extravaganza Tour in 13 major cities through out the country. These tasting feature a sampling of over 100 Single malt and Scotch whiskies including five Society whiskies. They are held in prestigious hotels and private clubs and feature a panel discussion made up of  master distillers and brand ambassadors. A sumptuous dinner buffet is included as well as a selection of premium imported cigars from the humidors of Montecristo and Romeo y Julieta. (cigar smoking is not permitted during the event).

It’s a gala evening, with lots of camaraderie and good cheer.

Joshua: Alan, what is your relationship, or, the SMWSA’s relationship, to the Old Malt Cask, Classic Cask, Douglas Laing, etc… independent bottlers?

Alan: My interest in whiskies is far reaching. Our import company, Spirit Imports, Inc, is the Importer of the Scotch malt Whisky Society whiskies (available to members exclusively) and other fabulous whiskies available to the general public. Among those are malts from Douglas Laing and Co. Ltd., The Old Malt Cask, The Premier Barrel, Big Peat, The Double Barrel, and McGibbons Provenance. As well, we are the owners of The Classic Cask Selection and Loch Chaim, kosher single malts. Highland Stag Blended Scotch Whisky and Paolucci Italian Cordials are other products which we import and are available to the general public.

Joshua: As you’ve mentioned, you have, or distribute, a line of whiskies called Loch Chaim which are a line of whiskies from different distilleries that do not have any wine or sherry influence (and are kosher by nature).  Who came up with this idea (I think it’s quite brilliant) and is it an expanding line?

Alan: Loch Chaim is one of our most interesting products. Loch Chaim came about on trip to The Glenlivet distillery a few years ago. My wife, Maddie, Beth Rush our director of members services and her husband Joel joined in The Glenlivet Gathering with about 150 other Americans. It was a fantastic experience. After a wonderful dinner and partying the evening away with the group at the distillery, we returned to our hotels via chartered bus. All were singing Scottish tunes, and at the end of the Bonnie bonnie shores of Loch Lomond, Joel and I simultaneously substituted Loch Chiam for Loch Lomond. A neon light went off in my head reading” Kosher Malt Whisky”.

When we returned to Florida, I contacted one of my malt whisky suppliers who happened to be observant Jews and request cask samples of bourbon aged whisky. I designed the label and contacted Rabbi Mendel Jacobs, Scotland’s only Scottish born rabbi and as well a malt enthusiast for his guidance. We bottled up 5 casks which I sampled at The Single Malt and Scotch Whisky Extravaganza in Washington DC. It was the hit of the evening and many of the local retailers in attendance immediately put in orders. We have released 7 casks thus far and and are in the process of selecting 4 more casks for the near future. Loch Chaim has no wine or sherry cask influence. All are bourbon aged.

Joshua: What can we, as consumers, expect in the future for the SMWSA?

Alan:  At the Society we are diligently working on plans for the future that includes members venues here in the US. I believe this will be huge turning point for us. We’ve recently relaunched our website and there will be new “mind blowing” additions in the months ahead. We are as well planning a series of sporting events for our members that will culminate with Society tasting and dinner in the Society’s unique style.

Joshua: One thing I try to focus on with my blog is what dram to drink for a particular mood or season.  Does the SMWS approach the release of new whisky expressions in a similar manner?  Do you approach personal consumption in this manner?

Alan:  I couldn’t agree with you more. Different moods, climates, seasons, events and cuisine require different whiskies. Life would become boring if all we drank was our “desert island” whiskies. The Society’s unique and descriptive tasting notes are a testament to this. I approach my discerning consumption in a similar manner. As well, I’ve come up with some far out approaches. One of my favorite summer malt concoctions includes a well chilled chunk of watermelon. Living in Florida presents challenges to malt consumption as well due to the incessant heat. I usually begin my evening with a blended Scotch on the the rocks. However, I do it a bit differently, by adding a “topping” of malt to it. Depending on my mood, it could be an Islay or other times a Highland or Speyside. When doing this with malt enthusiasts in attendance, the first comments are not very flattering, but when they sample it, “Brilliant” is usually the word spoken.

Joshua: Do you have any personal dearly departed SMWSA expressions?  SMWSA bottles that really stuck for you but, sadly, are now gone forever?

Alan: The nature of single cask malts is that when there gone, there gone. I do recall too many that I would love to have more of. Cask 78.7 was one of them. Described as “As black as the Earl of Hell’s waistcoat” was the best sherry aged whisky I ever enjoyed. Another Islay cask described as “Gun Powder and Flesh Wounds” was quite memorable as well.

Joshua: How did you get into whiskies?  Did you have a gateway whisky?  Do you have a story that goes with it?

Alan:  I got into whiskies when I was quite young. An uncle of mine was the owner of The Edradour Distillery, my grandfather, an Englishman, was introduced to single malts, by his son in law and developed a fondness for them in the 1940’s. He returned to the United States in the late 1960’s when I was 16 years old. I hadn’t seen him for about 10 years.

When he greeted me at his door, his first question was what do you drink? I responded 7&7. He winched and said come with me to the den, when he pulled of the shelf a bottle of The Glenlivet. He instructed me to take it with a bit of water, but I chose to have it over ice. We each enjoyed a couple of them over conversation. It became my gateway malt. Ironically, it was my first Scotch and my drink of choice for a decade until someone from Seagram’s (the brand owner at the time implored me to have it without the ice. It became much more flavorful). I then became intrigued with the category of malts and began my journey to try as many as I could. I’ve gone the gamut and enjoy them all, some more than others. On that trip to The Glenlivet Distillery I was reacquainted with their malts and totally understood why I initially liked them and why I like them so much today.

Joshua: What passions, other than whisk(e)y do you have?

Alan:  The other passions in my life are shooting, the mountains and exploring. I shoot trap once or twice a week and shoot pistols a bit less frequently. On occasion, every year or so, if I get lucky I get out in the field for pheasant. I spend as much time as I can in the mountains on North Carolina and Tennessee with my family (wife and two daughters). They are also involved in the business. I travel about 20 weeks of the year doing our tasting events and I try to schedule an extra day for myself to get lost and explore new territories, find brew pubs, micro-distilleries and old pick-up trucks.

Joshua: Do you have a list of Top Drams or perhaps some Desert Island Drams you’d like to share (including, perhaps, some non-SMWS expressions)?

Alan:  My non-Society desert island drams come from Islay. Depending on the day and mood, its either Ardbeg, Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Caol Ila, Bowmore and Bunnihabian depending upon the degree of medicinal taste I need to justify the dram.

Joshua: Without giving out names & places (basically, without getting yourself into any trouble), do you have any funny, interesting or bizarre stories from any of your events/travels that you wish to share?

Alan:  Way too many funny interesting and bizarre stories, many of which would add to my wife’s passion for me to quit enjoying malts with friends. I was once asked why I got into the liquor business. My answer was I like to work, I’m a workaholic and I like to drink and socialize. I couldn’t have found a better profession or industry to be in.

Joshua: Lastly, if you had a message or lesson to give people who are just getting into whiskies, what would that be?

Alan: My message to people getting into whisky is “Its a wonderful thing,,,,It’s a learning experience….Indulge, but in moderation with like minded individuals. Learn as much as you can but don’t get overly consumed with text book knowledge. Learn the fundamentals of whiskies and the methods and nuances of production, but go with your tastes and what you like. Make it a long and languishing, safe and fulfilling journey. And always salute with the classic Gaelic toast “LOCH CHAIM”.

Alan, thanks again for the interview!

My previous interviewees are:

Serge Valentin of Whisky Fun! and Malt Maniacs

Sam Simmons of The Balvenie

Stuart Nickerson of Glenglassaugh (Part one and Part two)

Yamazaki 18yr – wonderfully sherried

Japan – 43%ABV – 750ml –  $80-100 | £60 | €73

I’ll get right to the point here, I loves me some Japanese whisky.  Yamazaki 12yr?  Loved it.  Nikka Yoichi 12yr?  Can I have more?  The Yamazaki Sherry cask?  I will sin for you.  Nikka Yoichi 20yr 1988 vintage?  Sweet fancy Moshe!!

This is the tip of the iceberg.  Here’s my next new love – The Yamazaki 18yr – a fine sherried whisky.

On the nose Delicious sherried nose. Spicy as all hell with bursts of cinnamon.

Hot pepper peanut butter.

Red grapes and grappa.

Underneath some great notes of prunes.

That high sweet note that I just love from the Yamazaki whiskies.

A salty note is here – celery salt?

Finally, new leather and pipe tobacco.

On the mouth Chili pepper chocolates.

Crystalized ginger.

Caramels, poached pear (slight).

Fresh lawn mulch.

The mouth feel is so chewylicious….  Not a super winey sherried malt (thank you Suntory!) just, nice.

Finish Cheyenne peppers and breakfast cereals – Kellogs mini-wheats (sans frosting).

Oak and tobacco.

Lasting & lovely.

In sum I haven’t met a Yamazaki I haven’t loved.  A finely balanced whisky perfect for the fall time.  Watch the leaves fall, throw on a sweater, get ready for the new year (I’m talking Rosh Hashanah here, folks).

Glenmorangie Signet – Wonderfully different yet so quintessentially Glenmo!

Glenmorangie Signet

Highlands region – 46%ABV – 750ml bottle – $150200 | £110 | €134

Hi, my name is Joshua and I loves me some Glenmorangie.  But, let’s back up a little bit, shall we?

Growing up I was a fat kid.  Yeah, that’s me with the man-boy boobs and the feathered cow-lick on the left there.  We’re looking at 1984 – 1985 or so.  I was 11 or 12.  This is the summer I started getting into the Dead Kennedys and got hooked on The Goonies (can’t you just picture me doing the truffle-shuffle?) and Back to the Future.

Why do I bring this up and what does it have to do with Glenmorangie?

Well, it was the summer of 1985 where I ate ‘G-d knows how many peaches’ in one sitting after watching the Cool Hand Luke 50 egg scene just to see how many I could eat (I never did vomit, by the way).  We had 10 peaches and yes, I ate them all (shit, look at that picture of me!).  You see, I love peaches & nectarines.  Always have.  I actually prefer nectarine (they’re like peaches that got a Brazilian wax).

“Dear Joshua, what does this have to do with Glenmorangie?”  Well, I’ll tell you.  Ardbeg is known for peat & lemons.  The Balvenie has their “honeyed” notes.  And, Glenmorangie is known for it’s, among other notes, peach notes.  It’s all coming together now, right?  Love for peaches, love for Glenmorangie… see??

Ok, its a stretch.  I needed a chance to show fat Josh (yeah, right) so, there you go.  Let’s review this.

On the nose Aero milk chocolate bars.

Wonderful scents of paraffin wax.

Whiffs of recently extinguished candles.

Notes of ripe lush oranges and freshly brewed coffee.

Stewed figs and prune juice.

Underneath all of this lies the juicy peach notes (seeeeee!) that I always search for when having a Glenmorangie.

Finally, some great blasts of pipe smoke (how did I not detect this right off).

On the mouth Oh, G-d damn.  Brilliant and warming notes of melting chocolate chips with bits of cookie attached.

Whole milk and steamy lattes.

Fine dry wine.

Like some Clarets I’ve had – soft but tannic.

The mouth feel is right up my alley, lush.

Walnut shells and cherry skins.

Finish Zucchini bread and/or carrot cake with walnuts minus the cream cheese frosting.

There’s a drying nuttiness that pops up about 45 seconds after the swallow.

Yes, this is a nice, long finish!!

In sum I’ve had many-many a Glenmorangie in my whisky tasting life.  Of all the whiskies I’ve had, I’ve had more expressions of Glenmorangie than any other brand of whisk(e)y.  This expression was as much un-like a Glenmorangie as it was like the quintessential Glenmorangie.  Brilliantly different yet so dead on.  Beyond this, it’s unlike any other whisky I’ve ever had.  A bit of a conundrum but, that’s a good thing.  Kudos/Bravo Glenmorangie and Dr. Bill Lumsden!  If you have the money, this is most likely one of the nicest every day drinkers for you to have.  It’s that good.

A chance to experience The Bowmore Trilogy

This came across my desk here at the Jewish Single Malt Whisky Society HQ.  For $250 you get a final and rare opportunity to enjoy some of the finest and oldest Bowmore whiskies out today – plus an amazing dinner – all at Aurole in New York City.  This dinner and tasting will be held on Tuesday, September 28th, 2010.  Click the here for more details and/or to buy tickets.

Oh, if only I could join you there…

Field Trip to Scotland! (or, Living vicariously through one of my readers)

I just came back from my first trip to Scotland, and Joshua asked me to write a review of my trip.  I’ll focus on my whisky experiences during my brief stay in Edinburgh. First, a little background so you know my palate: I have been drinking whisky for about six years and three years ago started a Scotch of the Month (SOM) club with six close friends. We’ve sampled from about 115 bottles; the group has a pretty diverse range covering just about any whisky palate, so we’ve had quite a wide range.  My tastes generally go for the peaty Islays, but I enjoy trying all new whisky I can get my hands on, though I am not a fan of the overly sweet ones. This trip was with my wife and her parents, on our way to a wedding in England. Her dad had really never gotten into Scotch and enjoys the Canadian Whiskies, but he was more than happy to be my partner in crime. I’ll focus on three aspects of the trip: the whisky shops, the pubs, and the whisky tours.

First, the shops: a kid in a candy could not compete with me here.

My brother, who is part of my SOM group, visited Edinburgh last October and came to know the fine gents at the Royal Mile Whiskies. We’ve since had a couple shipments sent over and their advice, based on our likes, etc., has been spot on. I contacted them ahead of time so they were expecting me. After traveling overnight from Washington, DC, we could not check into our hotel room. I was completely wiped out, but after a brilliant Scottish breakfast and pot of tea, I was ready to roll. We found our way to the Royal Mile and the first shop we saw was RMW, magic! I stopped in to introduce myself and explain we were just killing time. Next thing you know, I am sampling the 2010 Ardbeg Supernova, as if to say, welcome to Scotland, bitch! That was followed by a sample of the RMW bottling of a single 10-yr cask of Laphroaig. I told them I would be stopping by later in the week.

Coming from the United States, especially DC, there are not a lot of great whisky stores.  Although RMW is small in size, it is overwhelming with selection. As Chris told me, they have lost more whisky in that store then they can remember. My shopping list was extensive: five bottles for me, one each for two friends, and four for my brother. Then my father-in-law jumped in and ordered two more. When I came back on the Tuesday, I was fed a total of four more samples and made my purchases. You know you are in good hands when they say “Where are my manners, you’ve been here five minutes and don’t have anything to drink.” Then I had a nip of the RMW cask of 25 yr Linkwood followed by their single cask bottling of Kilchomen, then their Laphroaig, and finally a 1992 sample of Laphroaig they found behind the counter. Overall they were great guys and their selection is enormous. They are well-versed for any palate and truly enjoy whisky. My personal haul: Ardbeg Supernova, RMW Single Cask Kilchomen, RMW Laprhoaig, Adelphi 14-yr Macallan aged in bourbon barrel, and a 1993 Scapa from Gordon McPhail. The latter two are for my next meeting of SOM.

A little further down the Royal Mile is Cadenhead, which is another fine store owned by J & A Mitchell & Co Ltd., the famed Springbank Distillers. They carry some inventory that is not available at RMW, and claim to be the oldest independent bottler in Scotland. They would not ship to the United States so I had to carry my purchases with me. They bottle some excellent stuff, as I had some samples later at a pub, but they did let me sample a Springbank port cask. They also have casks onsite; you can fill up various size bottles for purchase. First up was the Hazelburn 12-yr, which is an excellent unpeated whisky from the Springbank distillery.  One blend they carry is Campbeltown Loch; for 14 pounds, this is an amazing value. I bought one to consume over the duration of my trip. Lastly I acquired a 7-year Longrow Gaja Barolo. Overall, Cadenheads is a good store; not as great as Royal Mile Whiskies, but if you visit both of places, you’ll surely cover your bases. Both of the stores seem to have fair prices, more so than the touristy shops that sell whisky alongside a variety of cashmere and kilts.

Scotch Whisky Experience

Back to my first morning: it was raining and we were tired and hadn’t been able to check into our hotel yet when my mother-in-law asked if I wanted to check out the Scotch Whisky Experience. The tour is fun, but I learned nothing new about how whisky is made. We paid for the cheapest tour, which comes with one sample. Following a ride and movie on how whisky is made, they sit you down and give you four jars with scents representative of four main whisky producing areas (Lowlands, Highlands, Speyside, Islay; they leave out Campbelltown as Diagio – which owns the tour – doesn’t own Springbank). You are to choose which smell is most appealing and based on that you get your sample. The offerings were rather weak: Bowmore 12, Auchentoshan 12, Glen Dronach 12, and Benriach 12. Since there were four of us we each selected one, and most of it was passed on to me (sweet).

They do have the largest whisky collection in the world, which you can browse. It’s impressive, but since you can’t sample any, I was ready to move on.  Of course, you go through a whisky store on our way out. It was pretty unimpressive, just standard run-of-the-mill stuff at a bit higher prices than other places in town. It was finally 2 PM so we could head back to our hotel and get some sleep; had it not been for the whisky, I would have never made it. I will say that if you are an experienced whisky drinker, you can skip this tour. However if you are with novices or those who don’t drink whisky, then by all means this is a fun way to spend an hour.

Onto the Pubs

My first night I ended up hitting two bars that are part of the Scotland Whisky tour (I had no idea). We had dinner at the Whiski Bar, which is on the Royal Mile. From here forward my goal was to drink only whiskies I had never had before and to feed my father-in-law whiskies that would go with the palate of a Crown Royal drinker.

The Whiski Bar has a wide range of single malts and one-off bottling. I ordered the 1991 Glen Scotia for myself and the Hazelburn 8-yr for my father-in-law.  I like peated whisky but there is something about the peat used for Glen Scotia that I did not care for. Later I was chatting with the bartender and he pointed out the Kilchomen 3-yr, which is unique and high quality. This would be my only time at the Whiski bar but I wanted to return.

The haggis and other food is very good there, they actually had a really good vegetarian pasta dish.

After we put the in-laws to bed, we went to the Bow Bar. This was an overwhelming place: heavy leather-bound whisky menu with knowledgeable staff and amazing selection. First up was the Ardbeg Corry.  I’ve wanted to try it for a while and I was not disappointed. Then I asked the bartenders what I could have next that could stand up to the Corry. Eventually we settled on the Kilchomen.  For a 3-year-old whisky, it is amazing. We came back to the Bow Bar one more time (too bad it wasn’t every night), where I had the following drams: Ardbeg 15-yr Cadenhead Cask Strength (excellent), Linkwood 25-yr A.D. Rattray (wow), and Glen Grant 11-yr Rattray (bleh).

Another pub we went to was the Abbotsford, which is also part of the Scotland Whisky tour. Dinner was good: for an appetizer, I had the Springbank 12-year 100 proof (great dram), and ordered the Glenmorangie Nector D’or for my father–in-law. The Abbotsford is in New Town on Rose St.  There are a lot of pubs there and a good place to pub crawl if you are tired of the Royal Mile.

I also wanted to mention the Literary Pub Tour we did. We actually did two walking tours but on this one I got to drink even more whisky. I won’t mention the pubs themselves as it’s not fair for the tour. However this is a worthwhile tour, the guides are actors playing their roles as they take you to some of the historical pubs. Some had better whisky selection than others but I was always able to find something. We went to four different pubs, and I had about five different whiskies, including the 10-yr Macallan. Sure, it’s not exciting, but they don’t sell that on this side of the pond. I also had a Connoisseurs Choice Ledaig, and a few others. We also did the Witchery Murder Mystery tour, which is a great hour and a half walking tour, learning about death, the plague, and what a disgusting place to live Edinburgh used to be. I highly recommend both of these tours (even though there was no whisky to be had on the Murder Mystery tour).
Distillery Tour (my first)
On our third day we did a day trip to Stirling Castle, Loch Lomond and the Glengoyne distillery. Of course, they had a whisky shop in the Castle.  I was given a sample of the Islay Storm, which some people think is a Bowmore, but I think is a Bruchladdich (someone please tell me). I also bought a mini bottle of the Bruchladdich Peat, which I wanted to compare to the Port Charlotte series. Finally, on to the distillery.

Glengoyne is considered a highland though it technically resides in the lowlands. They primarily age their whisky in sherry casks, though they do have a 12-year bourbon barrel. I paid for the two sample tour, knowing my wife would give me both her samples, and my father-in-law would benefit from an extra sample as well. The tour itself was okay, but I did learn some things I hadn’t about the whisky making process, and to see it firsthand, it really sunk in. They start you off with a sample of their 10-year while you watch a short DVD on their history. I don’t remember our tour guide’s name but he was a nice fellow, probably in his early 20s and the rest of the staff seemed to tease him. The one disappointment was that we did not see where the casks are stored for aging. I guess you have to pay a hefty sum for that tour.

The tour ends at their whisky shop where we were given a sample of the 17-yr. By now my father-in-law had had about 10 different samples and he was sold. Before you can learn to pronounce “uisce beatha,” he was at the cash register paying for the Glengoyne 17-year. Sadly it was before we were given samples of their 21-year which I think he really liked. I told the tour guide my preference for hogshead and bourbon barrels, and he gave me a sample of the 12-year aged in bourbon barrel. Overall, they produce fine whiskies and it was a good starter tour. One day I will go back to Scotland, hopefully with my SOM crew, and we will tour Speyside and Islay.

When all was said and done, I sampled 45 different whiskies on this trip, and got my father-in-law to appreciate Scotch whisky.  What was the best of the lot you ask? It wasn’t even close: for a splurge meal, my wife and I went to the Witchery Restaurant, which is very highly rated (I think it has a Michelin star).  For dessert my wife ordered the pudding sampler; me, a 1986 Duncan Taylor Highland Park, 22 years. It was amazing, one of the top three whiskies I have ever had. After biting into some toffee and then taking a sip, it was as close to perfect as you can get. If anyone knows where I can get my paws on that bottle, I am all ears. The Witchery Hotel and Restaurant are right by the castle, and the stadium had been erected for the August festivals and Military Tattoo. On this night it was used for a concert for none other than Rod F-ing Stewart. It was hilarious: as every place was mobbed before they let people through the gates, we were surrounded by his faithful. The restaurant sat us an hour and a half early since we couldn’t find a pub to hang out in until then, due to the Rod Stewart crowd looking for cover from the pouring rain. It took well over an hour for the steady stream of people to pass through the gates, all of them looking in the restaurant, many waving.  When we left we could hear Rod playing.

Surfing in Scotland!

People who know me know that surfing is my first love (hobby-wise, not wife-wise).  I have been surfing for 12 years, and at least once a month every month for the past 77 months in a row. So when I mentioned to my wife there is surfing in Scotland, she said if I could find a place within an hour of Edinburgh, I could go surfing. Well, the search was on and I quickly found the Coast 2 Coast surf school based out of Dunbar, which is a 20 minute direct train from Waverly station. Hell, my daily commute is longer than that. Dunbar is a small coastal town that is home to the Belhaven Brewery and the birth place of John Muir, founder of the Sierra Club. The surf shop is located right next to the train station with the Coast Cafe. The center of town, is about a five minute walk away. I had scheduled to meet the surf school on the beach in John Muir Country Park, at 1PM. We where about 1.5 hours early so we walked to the town and found a pretty good cafe, Graze Coffee and Chocolate House, for a light early lunch. Scotch smoked salmon rocks. Then, a quick 10-minute cab ride to wrong beach. Not to fear, the wind was howling and it was raining sideways. After a phone call to the surf school, they came in a recycled van from Alaska that used to tote around sled dogs, and took us the right location.

Once at the correct beach I rented a wet suit and surfboard. This was a pretty unique beach for me, there are several hundred yards of wet lands before you get to the sand. When it is working, it is a quality longboard wave but that day the wind was howling on-shore with a 3’-4’ swell. Turn the wind off and you have pretty good conditions; however, with a 6-second period and soupy conditions, I would normally sit this one out, but I had one shot at surfing in Scotland. I should mention the water temp was also at 55 degrees. The guys gave their lesson to a group of kids while I went on my own. All of the kids were getting up in the white wash. I got a few unremarkable rides but was stoked none the less, although my leash broke and had to swap out with another board. After about an hour and a half, I was gassed from paddling through the tough conditions and called it a day. Even if you don’t surf and have some extra time in Edinburgh, this makes for a nice, non-touristy side trip. I would have liked to visit the brewery and castle but it was a dreary day, or a Scottish day as the locals say. With cold water, heavy wind, and a lot of rain, there was only one way to warm up. Thankfully I had a mini bottle of Springbank 15-year in my hotel room.

Overall, I loved Scotland, the people, and the hospitality. The hospitality of the people I encounter, and the overall positive vibes alone from Edinburgh, are enough to make me want to return. Now factor in the whisky culture, with surfing; I think I have found close to the perfect vacation.

To read my upcoming review of Scottish Beer check out www.betterbeerauthority.com

For other travel articles visit the Aisle Seat under the Travel Articles at www.straycompass.com